Sounds like a plan.

 

Hey Buzz. I checked wires green/yellow and green/ brown behind the interior fuse box. both have 12.7 volts in position II. they are both coming from the same connector. I have 12.7 volts to fuse 14 and I feel the relay kick in when I go to Position II. I'm still at a lose!!!!!

 

What about immobilization and alarm? What is the red LED on the dash cluster doing?
From the RAVE:

 

Hey Buzz. Yes that was my first consideration. The immobilization works as prescribed. I will try with the key multiple times to see if results are different. I will also look on the HawkEye to see what state it in and try to reset.

 

The hawkeye as of version 5 cannot sync the BCU and ECM. It can tell you the state of immobilizer.

 

Can't sync, went thru it all, Everything works ok. immobilization and alarm works fine. Still no spark. CKP is working, I'm getting RPM on live Data. I even checked MAF for power Checks good, 5 volts position II. Just don't know at this point.

 

Buzz I just put my finger crossed the gap of the spark plug and I do get some pulsing, very small but not enough to get a spark. what are your thoughts?

 

High resistance in 12 volt lead to coils, would have to measure at the connector (be sure it is clean) to the coils. If possible, use a tail light bulb to make a load on the connection, bulb should glow brightly. A high resistace connection can read "good" with a volt meter, until a load is applied to it. Equally, a high resistance connection from coils to ECU would also cause this, you have moved a lot of connectors.

Ignition coils, or wiring to them. If you still have an old coil and wire, you could use them to test for spark.

Might be something strange, like the bonding jumper from engine block to chassis. That can be duplicated by using a battery jumper cable to attach to frame and metal on engine.

 

Buzz, I did what you you said on the above post. went first to the coils. Pulled off L/H connector first, tested the 3 pins with the multimeter and found 11.9 volts in the center pin. Then I test with a brake lamp 12 volt bulb with key in position II, Got (NOTHING), and nothing from the other pins. Now I Started to Smile. Then I went to the R/H side of the coils pulled off the connector and tested with the multimeter first. I got 12.7 volts from the center pin, then tested with the brake bulb and the brake lamp lit up brightly. then went back to the L/H connector and now I'm getting good power from the center pin, with the brake lamp bright as day. I cleaned both connectors with electric cleaner, reconnected both connectors to the coil, ran jumper cables to the engine block and to chassis, and IT STARTED right up. YES, YES. but tell me why? Don't get me wrong I'm very happy, but I feel like there is something leerking behind me.

 

A loose wire perhaps. Wires that are loose, or wires that have rubbed thru inslation and short out from time to time can be the "devil" to find. A high resistance connection (corrosion) can make the volt meter read, but once a load is introduced that same reading will drop off. The corrosion acts like a larger resistor in series.

Near me a young preacher was assigned to a new church. After his first sermon, he greeted everyone as they left the church. A young boy walked up and handed him a coin. When the preacher asked why it was not placed in the collection plate, the boy said "I wanted to give it to you personally". When asked why, the boy replied "Because my Momma said you are the poorest preacher we have ever had here!" Hope that brings a smile to you while you do good work in a distant land.

BTW, many of us have to look up where Tanzania is, I happen to listen to BBC Africa each evening, and hear all about goings on in Niarobi, Kampala, in Kenya to your north. Where in Tanzania are you? Post some photos from time to time, may of us are only armchair adventuers, and would love to be able to drive out Rovers somewhere besides expressways jammed with cars on the way to crowded parking lots.