Fuel problems
#1
Fuel problems
Several weeks ago I started having trouble with my '95 getting fuel to the engine. I replaced the fuel filter and it worked fantastic for a week... Until I was 4x4ing out in the middle of no where. I stopped to do some fishing with half a tank of fuel. It would not start again until I put about 1/4 of a tank of spare fuel in. Then it worked fine, until I got to half a tank again. Seems to be that when I get to half a tank and turn the car off it just won't start again. I had a leak in my fuel line which I have also fixed. But still get the problem.
I can't look at my fuel pump as the access cap is very very very tight and I can't get it open.
Any ideas?
There are not any Landrover dealers or mechanics in my neck of the woods so I'm hesitant about taking it to a professional. (I was told when my leads were old that it was a electronic problem that could not be fixed).
Thanks guys.
I can't look at my fuel pump as the access cap is very very very tight and I can't get it open.
Any ideas?
There are not any Landrover dealers or mechanics in my neck of the woods so I'm hesitant about taking it to a professional. (I was told when my leads were old that it was a electronic problem that could not be fixed).
Thanks guys.
#2
Before you go after the fuel pump, check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail (battery side). Should gush out, with a guage it should be 32-34 PSI.
Fuel pump will need to come out in most cases. There is a secondary filter on the bottom of it, looks like a mesh sock. I looked at a pump once that was tight - because the gas tank had been bumped from below very hard. The RAVE manual has the procedure on section 19 page 20. Not having the special Landy tool shown, I used a different set of pliers and something to twist them. Usually the fuel lines will have quite a bit of rust on them. If keeping the tank full to 3/4 provides normal operation, perhaps the pump has shifted in the bracket that it hangs on inside the tank.
If you download the RAVE manual, you can also save it to one of those plug in USB drives, and carry to a shop, giving them a head start on the problem. There are wires that connect to the fuel pump at the top, pretty standard connectors.
Fuel pump will need to come out in most cases. There is a secondary filter on the bottom of it, looks like a mesh sock. I looked at a pump once that was tight - because the gas tank had been bumped from below very hard. The RAVE manual has the procedure on section 19 page 20. Not having the special Landy tool shown, I used a different set of pliers and something to twist them. Usually the fuel lines will have quite a bit of rust on them. If keeping the tank full to 3/4 provides normal operation, perhaps the pump has shifted in the bracket that it hangs on inside the tank.
If you download the RAVE manual, you can also save it to one of those plug in USB drives, and carry to a shop, giving them a head start on the problem. There are wires that connect to the fuel pump at the top, pretty standard connectors.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-12-2011 at 04:26 AM.
#3
#4
But if you fill the truck up with gas, you are waiting for the fuel pump to click off or the pain threshold for the pump price to be reached. You are not watching the gas guage. So if the float was off, would a full tank (by auto pump stop) really just indicate 1/2 to 3/4? Or way past full? I guess you could add gas a couple of gallons at a time while a fishing buddy keeps an eyeball on the guage.
Of course, the float comes out the same hole with the pump assembly. And re-jiggering the float is a whole bunch less than a shiny new fuel pump.
Of course, the float comes out the same hole with the pump assembly. And re-jiggering the float is a whole bunch less than a shiny new fuel pump.
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