Popping / clicking noise cured by lug nuts!
 

Had popping / clicking noise at 15 mph, straight or turning. In a previous post went thru (1) remove front prop shaft [my bad], (2) rotate each wheel by hand [no noises], (3) wiggle wheels for wheel bearing check (did bearings in front several months back, but top to bottom can barely feel something. Rovin4life also suggested the CV, as those ball bearings can generate the up/down movement.

Had filled swivel pin housings about 4 months back with 80-140 wt gear lube, what drained out was just old oil. Had put in a few shots from the grease gun for good measure.

Got about six - eight ounces of oil out. Replaced with just about a whole tube of Lucas Red & Tacky #2 lube. Test drive shows noise no longer there straight, some on left turns (it is the right wheel I was working on). Extended test drive down some washboard roads (always nearby in the boonies), and now noise is gone except for one or two clicks of pops when turning left AND going down hill, does not do this on flat gound. Of course everything is pretty flat where I live.

I would assume that once things have gotten to the point that popping noise (ker-pock, ker-pock) is generated the late application of lubricant of any type will simply quiet the noise for a short period.

How long does it take to go from just hearing it every now and then and failure? Can these CV joints be reworked?

Well, I decided that I should get a CV joint. Went to the salvage yard, pulled stub axle, CV joint, and 1/2 shaft from a 125K mile donor vehicle (1996 Disco); $32, took a little time in the 100+ degree heat.

Came back to the shade tree, jacked up front end a little bit, and decided it would be a good idea to break loose the lug nuts before I jacked up the truck. I had removed the front propshaft thinking that was the noise. It wasn't.

BUT - the lug nuts were already loose!!!! So my poor workmanship caused me to spend two evenings plus and afternoon throwing parts at the problem. Just loose enough to cause problem, but not noticed when wheel jacked up and spun.

Tightened up the lug nuts, test drove over regular and dirt roads, no clicks or pops even when turning.

So now I have one swivel with grease only, and one with oil/grease "pudding." Prop shaft to re-install. And a spare half shaft/CV joint and stub axle.

What have we learned???? Start with the basics!

K eep
I t
S imple
S tupid

I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.
I will sit in the corner and not touch my truck for a week.

@Savannah Buzz

Since you have done the drill I would like to ask for your advice.
My D2 has only 45k (stored few years) was in perfect condition. Had an accident hit the right front end. Most of the damage was fender and right wheel. Have everything fixed.
My front shaft has not been modified yet (i pan on doing that within a week). I have this strange "ker-pock, ker-pock" noise seems like on the left front only when I start to move up to 15-20m/hr. There is no noise once the truck start to move. Noise is not there always. It sounds like CV boot, but could be something else.

Where do I even begin? When I do my front shaft what should I ask them to look for?

Appreciate your advise.

I was able to listen to mine as I drove slowly by a solid brick wall, and could hear which side it was from. In my case it turned out to be loose lug nuts, but I also greased the CV swivel joints. On a D1, the swivels have a drain plug, I don't think there is one on the D2. The whole CV and hub assembly is different on a D2, and if you took an impact on the front wheel that required a hub replacement, I could see how the CV joint could have suffered damage as well. See attached drawing from RAVE. Hope this is covered by insurance.