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2010 Land Rover LR2 Transmission Fluid Change

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  #31  
Old 07-23-2022, 03:48 PM
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The Liqui Moly in the link IS the cleaner, not the lubricant.
 
  #32  
Old 12-30-2022, 10:11 PM
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No ones mentioned doing the trans filter as well... ? Is there any reason not to do the filter. Wifes 2009 LR2 has 160,000km and i was thinking i should do all fluids on the next service, including trans oil filter.
 
  #33  
Old 12-30-2022, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Evan N. R. Smith
No ones mentioned doing the trans filter as well... ? Is there any reason not to do the filter. Wifes 2009 LR2 has 160,000km and i was thinking i should do all fluids on the next service, including trans oil filter.
The maintenance schedule for the LR2 calls for the transmission fluid and filter to be changed every 10 years or 150,000 miles or about 240,000 km. Same for the transfer unit and rear differential oil. Then again, if you are going to remove the transmission fluid pan and haven't changed the filter recently, you might as well change the filter as well. They are not expensive, but it's not something you change as often as the engine oil filter, unless you have symptoms that might suggest the filter might be clogged.
 

Last edited by flybd5; 12-30-2022 at 10:28 PM.
  #34  
Old 08-28-2023, 08:43 PM
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Firstly I would like to say thank you all so much for the information provided. I have bought a 2011 lr2 hse last year and have had around $4000 in work done to it, Halex pump went and new front end coils and spark plugs. I’ve put about 40k kms on it and it’s at 155k kms. I’ve called transmission shops and they will not work on land rovers and I have a feeling the transmission fluid has never been changed. I have no real way of checking the temperature of the transmission oil and after buying all the tools (torx wrenches, fluid, gaskets I don’t really have a bunch of cash leftover to buy a fancy obdii reader. Also nobody really mentioned how they got the fluid way down into that fill plug hole. Lastly I have ramps I use to work on the car and it needs to be on a level surface to do the final drain. Wondering if you genius’s have any ideas to help me with some of the obstacles I’m facing. Thank you again for all of the insight so far, I really want this vehicle to last.
 
  #35  
Old 08-28-2023, 08:59 PM
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An Autel AP200 reader that understands Land Rover-specific diagnostics is $55.

Amazon Amazon

Checking the temperature can be done with an infrared temperature sensor. $18.99

Amazon Amazon

Transmission fluid pumps are also cheap.

Amazon Amazon


To make it level when you raise it use four jack stands and a floor jack. For that, hit Harbor Freight tools. In fact, if you have a Harbor Freight Tools nearby you can buy all this stuff there except for the Autel reader.
 

Last edited by flybd5; 08-28-2023 at 09:02 PM.
  #36  
Old 08-29-2023, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LR2driva
Firstly I would like to say thank you all so much for the information provided. I have bought a 2011 lr2 hse last year and have had around $4000 in work done to it, Halex pump went and new front end coils and spark plugs. I’ve put about 40k kms on it and it’s at 155k kms. I’ve called transmission shops and they will not work on land rovers and I have a feeling the transmission fluid has never been changed. I have no real way of checking the temperature of the transmission oil and after buying all the tools (torx wrenches, fluid, gaskets I don’t really have a bunch of cash leftover to buy a fancy obdii reader.
Autel AP200 is affordable and very useful for this car. As mentioned above, an IR temp sensor should work but my caveat on that is that I'm sure the temp specification is based on the tranny's internal sensor, not an outside measurement. Still probably close enough.


Originally Posted by LR2driva
Also nobody really mentioned how they got the fluid way down into that fill plug hole.
Long funnel. Or funnel with a hose on the end.


Originally Posted by LR2driva
Lastly I have ramps I use to work on the car and it needs to be on a level surface to do the final drain.
If you have four ramps, that should work. Alternatively if you don't want to buy more ramps or jackstands, drive the fronts onto the ramps, and then jack each side and place layers of plywood or bricks under the tires to get it all level. By bricks I mean bricks, not cinder blocks or anything hollow, those can shatter which would be bad.
 
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