HELP! Am I being taken advantage of? LR2
#1
03-22-2021, 06:21 PM
HELP! Am I being taken advantage of? LR2
Hi I have a 2015 LR2 and have had issues with it for a while. I am not a car guru so I do not know terminology or how ANYTHING works, so please bear with me!! Here's my story:
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
#2
03-22-2021, 08:00 PM
Pro Wrench
Hi I have a 2015 LR2 and have had issues with it for a while. I am not a car guru so I do not know terminology or how ANYTHING works, so please bear with me!! Here's my story:
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
#3
03-22-2021, 08:37 PM
Super Moderator
#4
03-22-2021, 08:47 PM
Step 1 is finding a shop that is trustworthy, knows Land Rovers and has experience in LAND ROVERS, not Hyundais. You can all Land Rover customer service to get a list of shops in your area. Step 2 is to ALWAYS shop around. You can have one shop do the turbo and another do the brakes.
As for shopping around - how am I supposed to know if I am getting quality service? Is there not a general pricing for repairs like brake pad replacement?
#5
03-22-2021, 08:48 PM
#6
03-23-2021, 02:40 AM
I would not encourage you to change your own brakes. It's not terribly difficult if you have the tools and some mechanical experience. But it's a safety item so you might just want to drive and brake gently a few weeks until you can partner up with your father for this DIY project. Also, it sounds like you may need to replace the rotors along with the pads which is a signficant extra cost. I don't know if the price you were quoted included rotors. You need to get a written estimate based on the brake inspection, or at least write down exactly what they tell you so there's no confusion or misunderstanding about what's included.
It would be challenging for any LR2 owner to live in an area which does not have a lot of European car specialists, especially if you don't do a lot of your own DIY maintenance and repair. You might want to consider getting a different vehicle that is more popular in your area for experienced service technicians and some competition for your business. You can expect more issues as your LR2 ages, so it's only going to get worse.
How did the Cat replacement go? I never heard of putting a down payment on a repair job, did they ask you to do that? When they removed the Cat, did they inspect it and tell you why it failed (oil poisoning?).
It would be challenging for any LR2 owner to live in an area which does not have a lot of European car specialists, especially if you don't do a lot of your own DIY maintenance and repair. You might want to consider getting a different vehicle that is more popular in your area for experienced service technicians and some competition for your business. You can expect more issues as your LR2 ages, so it's only going to get worse.
How did the Cat replacement go? I never heard of putting a down payment on a repair job, did they ask you to do that? When they removed the Cat, did they inspect it and tell you why it failed (oil poisoning?).
Last edited by LR2driver; 03-23-2021 at 02:50 AM.
#7
03-23-2021, 08:10 AM
If you trust the mechanic the H dealership recommended, have them prioritize the work that needs to be done FIRST. Some of those prices seem very expensive to me.
IMO, "two credit cards" thickness left in the pads gives you some time to shop around or time for your dad to help you change them. If your rotors are not warped or too thin, they may not require changing. It's hard to get a replacement rotor that will last as long as the originals in my experience.
As for replacing the cat(s), that would not be a priority for for me (sorry) unless you require certification in your state. That problem could come and go; it could be bad gas, old oil, turbo repair related, etc.. Tap that sucker with a hammer/mallet, carefully of course
, clear the code and see if it reappears. If it reappears, clear the code again at least a few time before dropping that kinda dough. My 2 cents.........
IMO, "two credit cards" thickness left in the pads gives you some time to shop around or time for your dad to help you change them. If your rotors are not warped or too thin, they may not require changing. It's hard to get a replacement rotor that will last as long as the originals in my experience.
As for replacing the cat(s), that would not be a priority for for me (sorry) unless you require certification in your state. That problem could come and go; it could be bad gas, old oil, turbo repair related, etc.. Tap that sucker with a hammer/mallet, carefully of course
, clear the code and see if it reappears. If it reappears, clear the code again at least a few time before dropping that kinda dough. My 2 cents.........Last edited by ThorInc; 03-23-2021 at 08:18 AM.
#8
04-01-2021, 05:20 PM
Winching
Hi I have a 2015 LR2 and have had issues with it for a while. I am not a car guru so I do not know terminology or how ANYTHING works, so please bear with me!! Here's my story:
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
My turbo went out at ~40k miles. It was still under the 50k mile warranty, so the dealership replaced it no cost. I had a friend at the time who had a 2014 Evoque and the SAME thing happened to her, at about 60k miles.
After the turbo was replaced, about a week later if that, my check engine light came on (the closest dealership to me then was ~1 hour away, now, it is ~2 hours away). I rushed it back to the dealership and after a diagnostic test, I was told it was a "computer malfunction" and "nothing was wrong". They cleared the check engine light and discharged me. The check engine light came on again about a week later. I returned it to the dealership, and was told the same thing, with the same solution. After a few weeks, the light came on again. The light would go on and off, and I noticed no mechanical difference in the way it drove, gas mileage, etc. So I didn't waste my time taking it back. The light would come on for a day, maybe, then go off for a couple weeks. This went on from 2017-now. Probably in late 2019/early 2020 the light came on and stayed on. Only going off for maybe an hour or so in a day.
In late 2020, Valvoline was finally able to read my check engine light (I had been everywhere that read lights - no one's computer thingys could read the car computer thingy). Of course I only remember the words "catalytic converter" and the lady telling me something about it having maybe had "bad gas" put in it. She recommended buying a gas cleaner, so I bought some and did 2 "treatments" - noticed no difference.
I also had another issue - something that didn't seem like a big deal at first, but had gotten increasingly worse in the past month or so. When idle, the car's engine would start to run loudly, do a little shiver (shaking for 2 seconds) and the RPM gauge needle would drop and pop right back up. This happened very rarely, and when it did, it was so subtle that you wouldn't notice it if you hadn't experienced it before. But, in the past couple of months, it started doing it OFTEN and got a LOT more intense. Finally one night I stopped to get gas, and after pumping my gas I was sitting in my car on my phone and the car did this routine - but it was doing it every 5 seconds, shaking so bad, and the rpm needle dropped for too long to the point I thought the engine was going to turn off. I started driving because it seemed if it stayed idle it would die.
After this, I decided to research repair shops in my rural Texas area and found about 3 shops that worked on European cars. One shop was highly recommended by the Hyundai dealership in town (Mom just bought a Palisade and was getting her first free oil change, asked for rec's). So I took my LR2 to this repair shop and explained this new issue and asked that they generally take a look at the whole car to see how it is, because it hadn't been looked at by anyone other than Valvoline since 2017. They couldn't find anything wrong just by looking at it and by driving it. Once they called me with this update, I told them about my turbo story. They said "ahh let me look at this then, because that would explain this" (by "this" and "that" you know I mean I don't remember what he said) - I do remember the words catalytic converter and I relayed my lady at Valvoline's explanation. They called me back the next day with an update - the catalytic converter has to be replaced. $1,500.
So I agreed and put $500 down. I just returned the car to them this morning to repair it (took some time to get the thing in) and asked them to take a look at the brake pads while they're at it because they do squeal a bit, and have seemed to get worse in the past few months. They called me back this evening and said all four of my brake pads are ROUGH. Like, "2 credit cards thick, rough. Like, I'm "just about metal to metal", rough. They said to replace all four would cost ~$1,400. I told him I would give him a decision in the morning. I called one of the other car repair shops I had found in my earlier research, and he said for a 2015 LR2, 4 brake pad replacements with brake sensor replacement would be ~$800. The third place I found said they would call me back in the morning because their repair guy/guy who could quote me had already left for the day.
I desperately need someone to advise me on this. I'm not flat broke and can afford this, but I don't want to be taken advantage of (24 y.o. woman here). And of course my dad says he can order brake pads and replace them (he's an electrician but car repair is another language to me, I don't believe just anyone can do it). Can anyone advise on this? Is this an issue that can wait a few days while I get other estimates? Can it wait a month until my dad is back in town and can replace the pads?
Hi Paige,
We have similar vehicles.
1. For your information that engine is in fact a modified Ford Ecoboost engine and the turbos are a known weak spot.
2. There is no such thing as a minor malfunction. The system threw a code. However small its worthwhile to record the date and code number. Trends can be seen.
3. Catalytic converters do plug up over time. This may be accelerated if you have a fuel management issue (misbehaving fuel injectors). It would be worthwhile to know if the codes thrown were fuel injector related. Catalytic converters throw codes from the Oxygen sensors.
4. Your other issue can be many things... PCV valve? leak in one of the vacuum hoses. A fuel cap that doesn't seal well. Faulty fuel injector? Oh yes, or clogged catalytic converter.
5. Your brakes. At your mileage I wouldn't be surprised if you need brakes.
BUT
Why don't you trust the dealer (that knows the vehicle well and won't install cheap parts that wear out quickly) to provide the service you need?
Yes, I do trust my dealer.
Last edited by guy; 04-01-2021 at 05:23 PM.
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