Evap system mystery
 

Here's something for someone above my pay grade.

Ever since I bought my 08 LR2 used I've had the check engine light come on regularly for the evap system. I changed the gas cap seal and even though that helped it never did away with that annoying error. So I had my mech do the smoke test and he found that the fuel system is perfectly sealed. He pressurized it too, and he couldn't find even the slightest trace of a leak.

So there are two possibilities... it's either the purge valve near the engine, or the evap system pump that pressurizes the system to check for leaks. Of course, par for the course for LR there doesn't seem to be a way to activate the pump through the computer (he's using a SnapOn box, he doesn't have SDD, I do, but I have no clue how to find out if I can activate the pump that way). Logic tells me that if the system doesn't leak when pressurized manually and smoke tested, the purge valve must be functioning correctly. So I told my mech to change the pump, it's about $270 + an hour labor or so (fingers crossed).

Anybody run into this before? Am I on the right track here, or barking up the wrong tree?

Read through this thread, this was my journey with a P2402 code:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34515.html

I don't have a P2402. It's not reporting a problem with the pump. Just a leak, error codes for small and large.

Same issue, several trips to my indie shop. Last time he R&R something near the fuel tank (vapor canister IIRC). I don't think the CELs come back since then (wife mostly drives the car).

I think his plan is to change the purge valve next time it's in.

Reminds me, I'd better check that thing again, smog's due next month. On my car it's intermittent, I passed smog last time just by resetting it with my scantool and with a little luck. But once you reset codes, it will need some drive time and start/stop cycles to fully reset to pass smog. A week of daily driving should be more than enough, or you can do it in one day with very specific driving patterns (google).

Pressurize the tank. If there is no leak the purge valve is probably just fine. In Mass my LR2 no longer needs to pass the evap test because of age.

The pump was replaced with a new one. 1 hour labor. So far, no check engine light, but it will take two weeks at least to confirm the problem is gone.

I also had the transmission fluid changed. It was brownish but not too bad. No solids, thank goodness. I didn't change the filter because that is a 6 hour job due to having to remove the chassis frame to gain access.

You over looked the third possibility.

The air filter for the EVAP pump is blocked.

For some reason Land Rover has a part number for just the Air filter if you drive an Evoque but not for the LR2 (it is my understanding that the Evoque filter will fit the LR2).

The system runs a self test on the pump (motor) and a .020" orifice pulling air into the filter thru the orifice, the current needed to do this needs to match a reference amount if it doesn't then the self test fails and a check engine light is set.

The good news is that the assembly you replaced comes with a new air filter.

The bad news is that the air filter is cheaper.

And it would be nice to know if just cleaning he air filter could fix the problem.

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/album...868/DMTL_1.jpg

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/album...868/DMTL~0.jpg

Yes, I discussed this with my mechanic but we decided it was best to just change the entire pump since I might have to pay for labor twice if it wasn't the filter. Also, it's been 13 years, and this is not like the fuel pump that sits inside the fuel tank.

Yep................that's in the thread I posted with the part numbers. Thanks Paul!

That must be nice. I was looking forward to the rolling 30-year smog exemption catching up with my '77 VW... Kalifornia froze it at '75 :mad: