LR2 2009 head gasket replacement
Dear members ,
I'm planning to do a head gasket job on my 2009 LR2 . first question : does any one have the torque specs for the head ? I checked them out on the manual but did really get it , is it asking to torque it to 45Nm then loosen it again then do the rest ? Second question : does any one have the specs on the maximum permissable engine block warp ? i found the same for the engine head but not engine block . Third question : shall I replace the stem valve seals since I already removed the head ? Or should I just leave them be since they are not causing any failure yet . And if I should , do you have the maintenance manual procedure for that ? Thnx alot Hamza https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...5739032ad2.jpg Engine head torque |
Head bolts are usually a multi-step torque spec.
My read is tighten all to 45NM, in sequence, then loosen all. This probably seats the gasket Then re-tighten all to 45NM, in sequence. This is torque step one. Then tighten all, in sequence, using a regular wrench to 90 degrees past the starting point. Torque step two. That's all pretty clear to me. What's not clear is why it says 180 degrees at the bottom of step 6. I *suspect* that the pdf version of the manual got corrupted and it should read the same as the 90 degree so, so torque step three is probably tighten all, in sequence, another 180 degrees. I would pay the fee to access JLR Topix for a day to see what the live version of the manual says on that. Or google volvo XC90... they have the same engine and there's more Volvo info out there. Not sure about the block, if it looks pretty straight I personally wouldn't worry about it unless you have reason to be concerned (like very bad overheat). Blocks are harder to warp than heads. Just my SWAG. I would certainly replace stem seals while in there. I suspect mine have a tiny bit of blowby at 150K, so they might not last forever. I don't see a detailed procedure in the manual, but the diagram makes it look like just the reverse of disassembly. I'd probably lube the stems with fresh clean oil before installing the seals. Normally you use a spring compressor to take the pressure off, then remove the keeper at the top. Everything on the valve stem should then be removable by hand. Again there might be Volvo info on that. |
Originally Posted by merlinj79
(Post 801245)
Head bolts are usually a multi-step torque spec.
My read is tighten all to 45NM, in sequence, then loosen all. This probably seats the gasket Then re-tighten all to 45NM, in sequence. This is torque step one. Then tighten all, in sequence, using a regular wrench to 90 degrees past the starting point. Torque step two. That's all pretty clear to me. What's not clear is why it says 180 degrees at the bottom of step 6. I *suspect* that the pdf version of the manual got corrupted and it should read the same as the 90 degree so, so torque step three is probably tighten all, in sequence, another 180 degrees. I would pay the fee to access JLR Topix for a day to see what the live version of the manual says on that. Or google volvo XC90... they have the same engine and there's more Volvo info out there. Not sure about the block, if it looks pretty straight I personally wouldn't worry about it unless you have reason to be concerned (like very bad overheat). Blocks are harder to warp than heads. Just my SWAG. I would certainly replace stem seals while in there. I suspect mine have a tiny bit of blowby at 150K, so they might not last forever. I don't see a detailed procedure in the manual, but the diagram makes it look like just the reverse of disassembly. I'd probably lube the stems with fresh clean oil before installing the seals. Normally you use a spring compressor to take the pressure off, then remove the keeper at the top. Everything on the valve stem should then be removable by hand. Again there might be Volvo info on that. Really appreciated thanks a lot for taking the time to reply all my questions , you're the man 😁👍 |
Originally Posted by Hamza89
(Post 801287)
Really appreciated thanks a lot for taking the time to reply all my questions , you're the man 😁👍
|
Originally Posted by flybd5
(Post 801294)
Umm... cylinder head bolt torque is only 10nm. There is also a specific order to tightening the bolts. I strongly suggest you download the service manual before you reinstall anything. And get the right sealant.
I already downloaded it long ago , this screenshot attached is from the PDF manual , it says 45Nm , the engine is I6 petrol 3.2 , are you sure it 10 Nm ? |
Originally Posted by Hamza89
(Post 801306)
Hi Flyd5 ,
I already download it long ago , this screenshot attached is from the PDF manual , it says 45Nm , the engine is I6 petrol 3.2 , are you sure it 10 Nm ? Oh, never mind. On your original post. I have an online meeting now, I will come back to this. I may be wrong, looking at a different place in the manual. |
Originally Posted by flybd5
(Post 801307)
I don't see a screenshot on your post. What page of the service manual are you talking about?
Oh, never mind. On your original post. I have an online meeting now, I will come back to this. I may be wrong, looking at a different place in the manual. |
Ok, I was looking at the wrong page. You are correct, 45nm. Tighten, loosen and tighten again, to make sure the gasket is seated properly. :)
|
Originally Posted by flybd5
(Post 801310)
Ok, I was looking at the wrong page. You are correct, 45nm. Tighten, loosen and tighten again, to make sure the gasket is seated properly. :)
|
Originally Posted by flybd5
(Post 801310)
Ok, I was looking at the wrong page. You are correct, 45nm. Tighten, loosen and tighten again, to make sure the gasket is seated properly. :)
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:44 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands