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LR2 code p0087

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  #11  
Old 04-18-2023, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jay800
Ok thanks for that, much appreciated I will try the test next time it gets into that state. One more thing to note, the fuel tank was as low as I have had it in a while (right on E) and I hadn't opened the cap since it was full to the brim and much colder out. Just something that may be note-worthy.

That FOB issue only ever seemed to happened when the FOB was not taken out then replaced for restart. Way back I told people it was a great security feature. hehehe.
But this makes more sense - almost along the same lines as the gas cap not being properly seated/reseated and rough idle.

Looks like the part number for the Evap Purge Valve is LR003489 for the 2010 LR2 HSE - I will get it asap and shouldn't be too hard to get to - down in front. I will hold off on the crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks again!!!
Let us know if that helps. The thing with a non-return fuel injection system is that it depends greatly on having a way to keep the pressure in the system at the correct level. Increase or decrease in the pressure will cause changes in fuel delivery efficiency, and engine performance may be affected. The purge valve works to equalize that pressure and bring it up or down as needed. When it gets stuck, it can't do that. Hopefully this will resolve your issue.
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2023, 01:00 PM
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Will do, may be a week or so before picking it up and changing it. I'll time it with an oil / oil filter change. But I will definitely report back.
 
  #13  
Old 04-18-2023, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jay800
Will do, may be a week or so before picking it up and changing it. I'll time it with an oil / oil filter change. But I will definitely report back.
I forgot I have a spare purge valve you can have for $20 + shipping. It's brand new. Let me know if you want it.
 
  #14  
Old 04-18-2023, 02:36 PM
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Thanks, but I already ordered one last night to my upstate NY postbox. I hope the hose connections come off rather easily. I will soon find out.
 
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2023, 08:01 AM
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Finally got the part up from upstate post-box into Ontario, and looks like a little more effort to get access. Question if you know, does the front bumper have to come off?

I notice besides the under-engine metal shield and light gray plastic tow hook cover( 2x twist offs) there is another black plastic cover surrounding tow hook (looks like 4x 8mm bolts).

Can I get access by removing that black plastic cover that surrounds the tow hook or does the bumper need to come off?

thx!
 
  #16  
Old 05-09-2023, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jay800
Finally got the part up from upstate post-box into Ontario, and looks like a little more effort to get access. Question if you know, does the front bumper have to come off?

I notice besides the under-engine metal shield and light gray plastic tow hook cover( 2x twist offs) there is another black plastic cover surrounding tow hook (looks like 4x 8mm bolts).

Can I get access by removing that black plastic cover that surrounds the tow hook or does the bumper need to come off?

thx!
You should be able to get to it by removing only the engine undershield.
 
  #17  
Old 05-09-2023, 10:32 AM
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Oh, ok thanks! I was looking up more at the front of the engine(1/2 way up) which is obstructed by that black plastic cover (while I was doing an oil change) but I will get back under and recheck, but up on ramps this time for better vantage or viewing point.

Thanks again!
 
  #18  
Old 05-09-2023, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jay800
Oh, ok thanks! I was looking up more at the front of the engine(1/2 way up) which is obstructed by that black plastic cover (while I was doing an oil change) but I will get back under and recheck, but up on ramps this time for better vantage or viewing point.

Thanks again!
Yes, underneath, up front. It's at the end of a short tube connected to the intake manifold, for which you have to remove the clip that secures it to the valve. You also have to disconnect the plug that energizes the valve. Compared to other things that will drive you up two or three walls, this one is easy, about as easy as changing the starter motor.
 
  #19  
Old 05-09-2023, 10:50 AM
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Remove the steel protection plate that is under the Engine/Transmission

Then remove the intake tube



Then remove the Electrical connection and Purge Line from the valve (green objects on the right side)




The next thing to remove is the Vacuum hose that connects from the Purge Valve to the intake manifold.

That's the hardest part.

I suspect that the mechanics buy a new Vacuum Hose and just cut off the old one.


Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly


Good Luck

Paul


 
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