Try an electrical reset:

Disconnect both battery cables (neg first)
Wait ten minutes
Touch battery cable ends together
Wait ten
Connect battery (pos first)
Wait ten
Insert key fob (don't turn on)
Wait ten
Turn car systems on, but not the motor (with foot off brake, press and hold start button for a few seconds)
Wait ten
Start engine, drive around a bit

I don't have access to the parts list, but the shop manual diagram seems to imply they are the same part. If in doubt, call the dealer, or any local parts store, they should be able to pull it up and confirm it's the same part number.

Also, there was the smoke... so may need to check fuses and even wiring harnesses. If something got hot enough to make smoke there might be melted wires/blown fuses.

 

Could you explain in other words about "Touch battery cable ends together"?

 

Never mind!! I figured out what it is through a youtube.
Let me try this to resurrect my dead LR2 to a glorified machine

 

I tried to do as you instructed above five times.
But my LR2 is still sleeping.

As I said before, my car's rpm was unstable.
Codes were related to camshaft position sensors. I replaced them all last night.
Today I tried to clean Crankshaft position sensor and Throttle body but I couldn't do.
The location of the crankshaft position sensor was tricky to get there.
(All youtube were for the Freelander 2 Diesel whose location is different from LR2's one)

Is there something left I can try to do before towing my LR2 to the Land Rover service center?

Land Rover repair seems to find a certain Mr. Stuart from many Mr. Stuarts in one state/country.
It makes me very depressed...

 

The manual I linked above has diagrams for all 3.2 components, you just need to make sure you're looking at the 3.2, and not the diesel section.

Only thing I can think of is you got one or more bad parts out of the box, it happens. The manual may describe how you can test them with a multimeter. Or you could buy another brand and try that (OEM if you got fatermarket the first time)

I can't think of anything else, again the smoke is a mystery that probably needs to be resolved.

You could also call independent Volvo shops... the entire drivetrain on this car is Volvo so an Indie guy might be willing to take a look.

 

I proactively changed my PCV and I bought mine direct from LR. Funny thing, my original PCV did not honk but the dealer replacement started, after about 2-3 months, an extremely mild honk for about a minute or less on start up. Weirdest thing but LR said they would replace the part but they would have to get their techs to assess and then do the install free if found defective. I passed as the part is not that expensive, it's an easy job, the very mild honk is very brief and I don't really deal with LR dealerships for a 14+ YO vehicle.

 

Thank you for your tip!
I decided to let my car towed to the Land Rover dealership tomorrow.

 

Mine also honks for a couple minutes now. That can be caused by ring blowby, so maybe it's just normal wear and looser clearance when cold. My engine got a recent compression check, which was fine.

 

I realized that there was the code: U2023 with P0012 in my LR2 on 10/20/2022.
After cleaning the solenoid valve, it seemed the engine got well.

But after few weeks, my problems above happened.
So I scheduled my car towed to a local shop next week
since Land Rover peabody can fix my one in December.

One website says:
"U2023 Land Rover Freelander is triggered when the bank 1 camshaft position sensor doesn't match the signal from the crankshaft position sensor."
https://www.diagnostictrouble.com/ob...ver-freelander

If so, do I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor?
(I have already replaced the two camshaft position sensors AND cleaned the solenoid valve because there were also two codes related to the camshaft position sensors)

Is there any suggestion that you could do for me for the last effort to fix my LR2?