A real SOS :) HDC System fail
#22
The manual I linked above has diagrams for all 3.2 components, you just need to make sure you're looking at the 3.2, and not the diesel section.
Only thing I can think of is you got one or more bad parts out of the box, it happens. The manual may describe how you can test them with a multimeter. Or you could buy another brand and try that (OEM if you got fatermarket the first time)
I can't think of anything else, again the smoke is a mystery that probably needs to be resolved.
You could also call independent Volvo shops... the entire drivetrain on this car is Volvo so an Indie guy might be willing to take a look.
Only thing I can think of is you got one or more bad parts out of the box, it happens. The manual may describe how you can test them with a multimeter. Or you could buy another brand and try that (OEM if you got fatermarket the first time)
I can't think of anything else, again the smoke is a mystery that probably needs to be resolved.
You could also call independent Volvo shops... the entire drivetrain on this car is Volvo so an Indie guy might be willing to take a look.
Update for you:
Smoke was from the starter which died.
And I replaced the engine with another used one.
because inside the engine there were a lot of particles broken and clogged the channel, a mechanic showed me.
I am fixing the rear differential noise.
Hope after this repair I may be able to drive my LR2 at least for 3 years.
Thank you for your help!!
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ThorInc (02-01-2023)
#23
Possibly the Alternator coupling bolt.
Same thing happened with my 08 LR2. The alternator on mine doesn’t use a belt, but a coupler to the transmission. There’s a bolt in there that attaches a pulley to the transmission (Think “Power Take-Off”/ “PTO””…like on a farm tractor. Believe it or not, LR/Ford/Volvo didn’t enginner the bolt from loosening enough over time to back out. Mine made a strange noise when it happened, but I didn’t put 2 and 2 together until the alternator “Failed” and I researched this issue. I tightened the bolt and put blue LocTite on it. Alternator was fine after that. NOTE: If your alternator is original or has a lot of miles on it, you should consider replacing it with the highest quality NEW Denso that you can afford. It’s worth it to not have to remove the Intake Manifold to get to the damn thing. I should’ve, but I had to fix the vehicle in a hotel parking lot 500 miles from home in B-eff Egypt and time was of the essence.
It’s a cool little vehicle with lots of nice features, but if I wasn’t a BMW mechanic, able to do my own repairs, I wouldn’t have the damn thing. Even so, I’m at the point that the amount of parts and time I’ve put into it is about to exceed the value of the vehicle. If you can get it running with no codes, you should dump it.
It’s a cool little vehicle with lots of nice features, but if I wasn’t a BMW mechanic, able to do my own repairs, I wouldn’t have the damn thing. Even so, I’m at the point that the amount of parts and time I’ve put into it is about to exceed the value of the vehicle. If you can get it running with no codes, you should dump it.
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yukonridin23
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
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01-04-2010 11:08 AM