I tried searching in this forum for this answer with no success. So I will share what I learned so you won't have to struggle.While replacing the front pads, Idiscovered the dreaded unique bolts that fastens the caliper chassis to the wheel assembly. They are 21 MM spline bolts. I discovered a 12pt 21MM socket will fit snugly enough to remove and tighten the bolt back in place. Once they are removed, the brake job is as straightforward as any typical brake job. I suggest you carefully slide out the wear sensor before removing the caliper. I used broad tip pliers and wiggled it out gently without to much force to try not to break it. It came out without protest.

Good Luck

 

Adding to the knowledge, put some thread lock on those caliper mounting bracket bolts! One worked its way out on my 06 LR3 about 1.5 years after my last brake job. Hadn't touched it since. After it dropped the caliper would swing out against the rim and make a bang sound every time I hit the brakes. The part number for these bolts is SYG500050, but my local land rover parts department didn't have any in stock. If you're in a pinch, a replacement bolt size is M16 - 1.5 pitch, 45mm long, and grade 10.9. I had a hard time finding a replacement before the OE arrives but finally scored one at a local bolt supply company that was 50mm long. It went through too far and pressed against the rotor so I used a grinder to get it down to size.

Absolutely no luck finding a comparable bolt at the local auto parts stores, local hardware stores, or Fastenal. Grainger had some hex head in the correct size that were only sold in boxes of 25 for $80 and still had to be shipped to the store in three days. The bolt supply company charged $2.75 for singles. It seems to hold really well, but I'll drive gingerly until the OE bolt come in about 5 days.

 

Or just do the brake jobs the right way and dont touch those bracket bolts. Remove the slide pins which have to be re-lubricated anyway.

 

How do you remove the slide pins? Do the slide pins allow you to change the pads without swinging the caliper? Also would what you lubricate the pins with?

 

Just unscrew them. I think 10mm? Maybe 8mm? Then you can grab the entire caliper and pads and slide it up off the rotor as a unit. Do NOT let it free-hang unsupported from the soft brake line. And yes, the pins should be removed and lubricated at every brake service. If they seize up they are often mistaken as a sticking caliper. For grease pretty much any high-temp stuff will work. The key is to clean them well and apply grease liberally but not so much to fill the rubber boot.

 

I cannot retract the caliper with all my force. I opened the bleeder and could still not retract. Am I to assume the caliper needs to be replaced?

Also, this is the rear break passenger side. If I want to replace the disc, is there a safety brake mechanism inside the passenger side?

Thanks

 

Yes, there are brake shoes, springs and knurlers and whatnot underneath the brake disk.

i would suggest that you google for ‘Bodsy’s brake bible’ in PDF format. It is an excellent resource to anything brake related. Also do remember that one side is the mirror of the other so you will need to turn screws and bolts the other way.