You guys made me want to check to ensure rear locker is there... yes. See pic.

The drive shaft has about 1/4in of play. I can hear the rear diff inside a bit when shaft hits max play, but not while turning. Also pics of drive shaft pushed up and down. The flex and movement seems excessive. Other ares look ok.

I reviewed all input. I think the actuator may be week or computer, can't tell. The flex in the shaft seems to much with a to worn retainer...? But I can't tell if you guys think it's unlikely to be the packs in the diff or not... Clarify if you can and is possible or worth replacing the actuator over the rear diff without a complete rebuild?

 

Thats locking indeed. But what is up with all the surface contamination? Looks like its leaking. That entire locking assembly, except the motor housing itself, should be nice looking aluminum not black. I know you have been in sand which does not help, but that thing is pretty covered.

 

BTW... yes, actuator on top. I think it's the original

 

I agree Dakota T. Been looking for the leak. Don't think it showed like that a couple months ago. No drips on drive. Going to see if I can get this in tomorrow for the LR mechanic

 

Wanted to clean the area a bit to aid ID any leak. No degrease. No soap. Just washed with water. 90% came clean. Now I am very concerned. Had the LR3 inspected by certified LR mechanics. Full inspection done first week of purchase, second full inspection done when all fluids where changed. Plus have LR washed every week or two mainly to clean wheels and undercarriage. All this implies more recent and faster than I slow wick.

The leak appears to be at the actuator motor connection to the housing and / or at the base of the elongated hex bolt head protruding from the side of the locking assembly. Is this diff fluid? (I assume so) Might this explain the vehicle reluctance locking rear diff?... low fluid? safe to drive to mechanic? If need be I can drain the fluid and refill as I understand it should be an exact amount. What is that long bolt head? My understanding is that locking and non-locking rear diff fills are on the otherside (right side) of diff and drain is at bottom center.

Hope you can provide some info and I do appreciate it!

 

A leak that high is very possible but is slightly unusual. While the diff fluid is being flung around inside at speed, there is no major pressure behind it. So to have a leak from above means its actually a good sized opening. I would avoid any water crossings until resolved. Get it super clean and keep an eye on it. As far as I know that hex bolt should never be touched and yes it would be diff fluid. I forget which plugs are which for filling, there appear to be two but one is proper.

As for the apparent reluctance to locking, it would have nothing at all to do with the diff itself. As odd as that sounds. The locking behavior is commanded by a computer and the computer says when it locks or not. Now if the diff does not respond/behave properly you will get a fault. So its not like like the computer cay tell it to lock and it physically refuses and the computer just goes "fine, we will talk about this later" and storms off. If its not working right it will fault. So at this point I dont think the diff has any issues big enough to cause a fault but that does not mean it could be problem free, its just responding in a way that the computer sees no issue.

Worse case you need to install a rebuilt diff. The locking ones are not cheap, usually about $1k USD plus install. If you can find a locking one in a yard, you can probably gamble and get one much cheaper. Especially since most yards probably dont know some came with lockers or not. If you go used I would at minimum scope it to see how the inside looks and replace the input/output seals. Even the bearings if you feel up to it.

 

Thanks for the advise....

God bless and have a great night!

 

Here is a pic of leak. Looks to be the bolted connection from actuator motor to assembly. I found the rear drive shaft support in bad shape. Will replace entire shaft with support included and while shaft out replace actuator motor with new. Soun

d good? Can I get the software download needed with actuator motor?

 

I would have to guess the motor was replaced and not sealed properly. If you install a new actuator motor assembly you need to calibrate it. The software can be updated with an IID tool from Gap. That tool can also calibrate the diff. You could replace the shaft first, only get OEM or GKN/Spicer. If the shaft takes care of the noise then you can just remove and reseal the actuator.

 

The two items together make sense to replace both for a frustrating and fun day. With the shaft out, the actuator is more accessible. Replacing the shaft is a bit more than just the support, but all the shaft bearings will come greased saving a so so LR mechanic time. Still concerned about the software and the rear locking diff actuator