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Almost ready to give up - suspension issues

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  #1  
Old 10-17-2018, 09:49 PM
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Default Almost ready to give up - suspension issues

Ok, I’ve tried everything I can think of and am stuck.
I think I have a leaky front end. Was getting occasional error for number of transition events. So, I put it in off road height and pulled f26. Next day it was still up on the rear and low in the front.
I ordered o rings to rebuild front valve block. Rebuild went well, no concerns. But I did remove and take it apart to ensure it wasn’t cracked or the valves were jammed.
However, now, I can’t control the valves or start the compressor with my GAP IIDTOOL.Tried all of the test options and even flashed the ECU. I’ve cleaned the connectors to the front and rear valve blocks and ensured they are secure. I looked at the wiring near front right wheel for damage. I pulled the rear and adjusted similar height signal as front in case the variance was too great. That didn’t help. I changed the calibration manually and that didn’t help.
I did pull the relay and energized the pump to pressurize the reservoir. Ran it for a couple of minutes while monitoring
Here is the error(s) that I’m getting. The first, consistently and sometimes the second.
ive read many posts, and getting frustrated.
Suspension
  • C1A30-64 (AF) Both switches pressed at the same time - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
    ( on 17-10-2018 17:57:49 at 143579 mi )
  • C1A00-1C (A7) Control module - General electrical failure - circuit voltage out of range
    ( on 17-10-2018 17:57:59 at 143579 mi )
Ultimately, the system seems to be locking up as it is interpreting some signal as up and down switches pressed simultaneously. The live values confirm that. It’s yellow then red on the dash.

So, what am I overlooking? Help, or it will need to go to the dealer.
 
  #2  
Old 10-17-2018, 10:14 PM
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Get a new valve block. That whole rebuilding thing rarely works.

 
  #3  
Old 10-17-2018, 10:58 PM
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Think it could be one of the coil/electromagnets grounding out? Go OEM or is cheap ok?
 
  #4  
Old 10-17-2018, 11:01 PM
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I would go genuine.

we can get them from our local suppliers within an hour or two. Cheaper than the dealer.

text me tomorrow, I can order for you and ship same day.
 
  #5  
Old 10-19-2018, 09:11 PM
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Default Resolved issue

I like to close the loop on these so people can learn from the issues, Even when it’s embarrassing.

Abran, thanks for getting the new front valve block to me so quickly. I appreciate it. I always appreciate your help.

In the end, I found that I had put the fuse back in the wrong slot. The 20a fuse goes in F26, not in F24! Why the error code was so misleading, I’ll never know.
Lesson learned, sometimes you gotta go back to square one. And now, I know way more about the EAS in my LR3...



Yellow fuse in lower right is in the correct spot for the EAS ECU to work correctly.
 
  #6  
Old 10-19-2018, 10:29 PM
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Yeah George, the most tenacious LR owner I know!
 
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