ARGHHH!!! So pissed....not in the good way (like drunk) Either
 

Has anyone actually successfully done the EPB adjustment, here? I'm starting to think it's a damn myth.

I followed Bodsy's Brake Bible. I jacked up both sides in the rear, removed both wheels, adjusted per the instructions (until tight AF, backed off until I could turn the rotor with a torque wrench set to ~60NM; diddle with the Allen thing and bang the rotor and all that crap that's in there. Did both sides. EPB still squealin'. I tried tightening the $hit out of it; still squealed. I tried making it loosey-goosey, still squealed.

I definitely made it worse. Now it still squeals, and when I set the EPB (my driveway is inclined) it rolls forward about 8" before it sets. So I guess I at least know it needs to be tighter, but what a pain. The Bible give you such precise instructions as "8 clicks" of the gear, but it doesn't actually "click." I also love the prescribed setting of the torque wrench, as "40 to 90 NM." That is quite a range.

Anyway, I'm venting, but hoping someone has some insight. Worth noting that my LR Tech Buddy suggested I get all 4 tires off the ground to do this, but only the two rear wheels need to be removed. I did NOT o this, thinking it would be faster/easier and Bodsy did not say I needed the fronts up in the air. Anyone experiment with this aspect???

Thanks!

-Houm

Squealing can also mean the actuator needs new gears or the cables are bad.

Yeah...the squealing is momentary though, and it resulted from the EPB cable being replaced at a shop that didn't know that it needed to be adjusted after. I wanted to try doing the adjustment myself.

But there are two cables and they must be replaced in pairs.

Yeah that may be it...
 

Crap...the cable that was replaced was only because it had to be cut to get the hub off (to replace the bearing). That is sure not very intuitive that both cables must be replaced together...any idea why that is?

They are two cables in one system that can only compensate so much for a difference in lengths due to stretch. So you can either keep working it and see if you can get it right or replace the other side. Did they open up the actuator assembly at all to replace the cable? I think one side comes out without the need but I think the other side requires opening it. The cables are not the same on each side. In short if I had someone do something like this it would have to be dealer or a good Rover shop to get it right. I am just worried that something else could be off causing the issue.

That's good info, thanks. I doubt that they opened up the actuator. It's a long story, but it was an Infiniti Dealer doing the work. I don't think I want to mess with changing the other cable at the moment. I'm going to tighten it as much as I can this weekend and just go from there. The reason I think it's an adjustment issue is because it was fine until the cable was replaced and because it is clearly too loose now (on my inclined driveway it now screaches longer and rolls forward before the EPB stops it).

If I can get the screach to a minimum I can live with that until I'm willing/able to do the other cable. My bigger concern is that having a mal-adjusted EPB can affect the actuator in the long term. The noise itself isn't that big a deal to me...other than a nails-on-a-chalkboard effect.

I followed the guide after having to use the release cable once, i think if you do the adjustment sooner rather than later its a simple task.

I did do it, but it didn't work!