No prob, I enjoy it.

Let me know if the gas pedal thing works, and if not, let me know...I have one more idea...

 

For the code, if there's an Autozone (or similar) near by, have them scan it, as they'll probably do it for free, and from the code we can pin point the issue exactly....

 

There are probably half a dozen ground points on the LR3 at least, so it's possible that one of them is not grounding fully. The water is also a culprit iif it leaked into the cabin. Had that happen to my Rodeo and it took out the keyless entry system.

Dave

 

Wilky, No the ECU is not water-proof and it is located right under the area where your leak is. There was another thread on another forum (I think) that addressed the leak - and a user reported that he had fried his ECU with the leak. I wish I could remember where I read that stuff... apparently, there is a vent intake under the windshield wiper motor cover that points straight up, and if that wiper motor cover leaks, water pours right in.

BJ

 

My leak is coming from the sunroof area and water used to drip from the head liner light assembly down onto my shifter console area. I have been parking it in my garage lately instead of leaving it outside in the elements. Water hasn't been in my truck for a while now. Where are the ECUs that could be ther culprit for the battery light? What do you think is causing it? My alternator is putting out 14v DC with battery light on, at the alternator and at the battery. I have replaced both, but after I changed my alternator, the battery light remained on all the time instead of ramdomly with the previous alternator. I think I changed my battery when it really didn't need to be replaced. I'm gonna have a shop look at it to tell me exactly what the cause could be. I think I got a faulty alternator or an ECU is tripping out on me. With all of the electrical mumo-jumbo in this beast, it could be anything.

 

If the battery was the original, then replacing it wasn't really a waste of money. It was due to leave you stranded anyway. I've had batteries fail most often when they're older than 4 years, and have never had one go 6 years, so I always replace them proactively at the 4 year mark. 177K and 11 years on my wife's daily driver and it has never let her down, mainly because I'm fanatical about preventative maintenance.

Also- you could have something going on that's causing the rectifier diodes in the alternator to fail. The most common causes for this are a poor or intermittent connection in the positive battery lead that causes the alternator output to find another path to ground...overheating the diodes. In any case, before you replace anything else, definitely have a qualified charging system shop put it on their equipment to diagnose the problem. If you have a diode failure, it will tell you before you put another alternator in it. Putting out 14V isn't necessarily a clue because it could be that the alternator with a failed diode isn't putting out enough current to maintain the load and keep the battery topped up.

Dave

PS - One more thing I forgot to mention earlier. If the battery was actually bad and you install a new alternator without replacing the battery, that can burn up a diode in the new alternator as well. If the battery has an internal short, it will drain substantially more power from the alternator which is what fries the diodes. Alternators on newer cars are designed to last a very long time unless something takes out the electrical components. In any case, definitely time to get it checked out by a pro.

 

Take it in...better to just get it done right...and might be less expensive at this point as well instead of throwing more parts at it. JMO.

BTW....did my "trick" get the oil change light off?

 

Copper, I was actually talking about the countdown number by the odometer. It says like -# of days. I was asking how to reset that. That is the service countdown, right? The number of days past a due service . . . Geo, I am taking it to a shop tomorrow and have them troubleshoot the charging system on it. What you said makes sense now that you put it that way. I wasn't thinking about the current, just the voltage. As a mechanic, you'd think I would have taken that into consideration also. I overlook simple things sometimes. Thanks a bunch guys. I will keep you updated tomorrow after I get it back from the shop. I appreciate them help you are giving me.

 

There's the miles to empty for gas...I don't remember seeing an oil life thing. I'll check again.
What trim is it? (SE or HSE)

 

SE. It's in the right side of the dash in the odometer portition at the bottom, it says it when I am starting it up and once it's running it turns into odometer and trip. It shows up right next to the odometer/trip reset button. It's not a big deal, I was just curious how to start the "countdown" over again so the "service" light doesn't come on. I'm sure there is a way to do it. The last time I had LR service it, the "countdown" started over again. When I see the negative number, it also says service and turns off once it's running and stuff. Does that give you a better idea of what I'm talking about? Thanks again brother.