The other day the CEL came on. One of the codes was related to the EGR valve. Took a look under the hood. Thing looked horrible, so I decided to replace it. This is how I did it.

Tools used: socket wrench, long 10mm socket, crescent wrench, flat head screw driver. Optional: vice grips (you'll see).

Procedure:

Unplug the electric plug.


Unplug the vacuum hose. Used a flathead to ease/pry it off.


Loosen the hex bushing with the crescent wrench.


I wanted to replace this hex bushing. I couldn't find one at Home Depot (not surprising), and then I noticed even if I found one, I couldn't get this thing off, or a new one on, without totally disconnecting the hose due to a "lip" on the end of it that prevented it from sliding off (see picture of the EGR off).

Remove the two screws, one on each side. It took a bit of force to loosen these things up. Looking back, I would recommend using some penetrating lube like PB blaster or something before wrenching on these. I'm lucky I didn't sheer the head off.


Oh yeah, make sure your tools aren't total garbage before starting any project.


Short 10mm socket now firmly stuck onto the screw head. Fingers ain't getting this thing off.


V grips to the rescue.


Results of a $10.99 socket wrench set. Have since gotten a new set.


A longer 10mm socket made things easier.


Old EGR off.


Remember to take the small "plate" off as well. Almost missed this part.


Out with the old, in with the new.


Reverse steps above. Done.


Took about an hour to complete due to bad tools. Would probably take someone else 30 min. Also, I would rate my mechanical ability at a 4 out of 10, so a more experienced person might be able to do it faster.

Hope this helps someone in the future!

 

Aaaaannnddd.... the most important question: Did it fix your problem? Hope it took care of the CEL.

 

I don't know, haven't driven it yet! The CEL that popped up is very sporadic, so only time will tell.

 

First off, may I complement you on your post and all the pictures.

I particularly liked the jpg's of the broken socket adapter. That sort of problem is I think common - well not the breaking but just that simple tasks can tend to be not so simple; hence well done.

I have the 4.1L petrol V8 that on an irregular basis was also showing the Check Engine Light. After a few months of watching it come and go, I thought I would throw parts at the problem and see if I could solve it.

In summary, I think I have, but perhaps once a month, the light will still illuminate.

First off, I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor, part number PHF000140.

That I initially figured that was the solution as the light pretty much quit coming on. The MAF sensor I removed was the original plus there seem to be a number of varying opinions regarding the effectiveness of cleaning the sensor with those spray solutions - hence I purchased a new sensor.

I then later followed up with installing a new Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, part number 4628195, as a MAP is not very expensive and has something to do with potentially causing the light to come on.

Changing the MAP did not make matters better or worse - the CEL light would still display on occasion.

I then for some reason got to looking at the round piping off the air cleaner in the vicinity of the MAF. I noticed that under the gear clamps, there are rubber gasket air seals located between the round plastic ducting sections; also that two of the rubber seals were sort of crooked - as in not quite placed properly.

With a screwdriver to loosen the gear clamps that clamp the plastic ducting to the rubber, I reset a couple of the seals. Since then, the Engine Light rarely illuminates.

I have since theorized that the main problem was a dirty MAF, perhaps even made worst by outside air leaking in downstream of the air cleaner; certainly that would change the mass balance anyway.

As to how or why the rubber gaskets were dislodged, I have the dealer do my oil changes. I think regarding their procedure to check the condition of the engine air filter, that rather than fully remove the air cleaner lid, the screws are loosened and the lid tipped up to peak underneath. The action of tipping the lid up slides the rubber gasket(s) partially out; the gasket(s) then do not slide properly back into place when the lid is reset and one now has an air leak.

I now tape a masking tape sticker on the air cleaner lid saying "Owner Serviced" and on each work order, a notation saying not to check the air cleaner filter.

 

Good to know! I'll have to take a look at those myself. CEL hasn't come back on yet (knock on wood)!

 

CEL STILL hasn't come on! Thought I'd follow up for future readers.

 

I think you're in the clear! (knock on wood anyway)

 

Just a question out of random curiosity - where do you live? That's a heck of a lot of rust/corrosion in those pics.

 

Wisconsin. 'Nuff said.

 

Hey guys and girls, just thought I would add to this thread as I recently had similar issues. This is on a 2006 LR3 V6 gas engine. It started out with some rough idle issues when coming to a stop and the engine occasionally stalling. Had a check engine light with several codes i think p0441 p0442 p0401 p0069.

The problems progressed to where I would have trouble starting the engine when it was hot, especially after a very short drive. When the vehicle was left overnight, no problems starting the next morning. Sometimes it would require turning over the engine 20 times before starting again, but it would eventually start. Very frustrating when you're just trying to make a quick trip to the grocery or beer store!

After reading this and I'll admit other forums as well , I was looking for the usual suspects so started out by cleaning the MAF sensor. It immedialtey helped the idle but the CEL came back on. Next I cleaned the throttle body as that had seemed to help others clear the code and fix the rough idle issue. It was pretty dirty and I did a mediocre job of getting the gunk off. BTW, this was my first time doing anything mechanical on a car engine, and the various forums and youtube were a huge help. Cleaning the throttle body "seemed" to provide an even smoother idle but I'm unsure if it really did. Kind of the same way I think my LR runs smoother after washing it, because you know, the truck is happy!

Anyway, after cleaning the MAF and throttle body, the rough idle had improved quite a bit (but was not eliminated), However, the CEL came back on after clearing. I decided to replace the MAF sensor in case the existing one was faulty, not just dirty. It set me back about $150 bucks at NAPA, and they give you $50 back when you return your old one. Quick 2 minute replacement, cleared codes, and they came back after about 30 minutes of driving. OK, now I had done the obvious things that had seemed to help others, and still no resolution. I had spent $150 on the MAF sensor and about 15 bucks on MAF sensor cleaner and throttle body cleaner.

Several of the codes had to do with exhaust gas recirculation. I was getting codes for both too much and too little "something something EGR flow" or something (I'm not technical ) I found this thread and decided I had the ability to replace the EGR valve, but thought I would take it off and clean it first. That would also let me do a dry run to make sure I could get it off and back on again in the event I bought a new one. I just followed the awesome instrutions above, remembering to first spray lots of WD40 on the 2 bolts, as they look similar to the ones on KidA's old valve.

I almost forgot, I did also try one other thing before the EGR valve. Several form posts mentioned that a vaccum leak can cause the issues I was having. Not knowing exactly where to spray, I sprayed carb cleaner on various places under the engine listening for a rise in RPM's while at idle, apparently meaning there was a vaccuum leak if the revving did change...no luck there.

Well the old EGR valve came off easily, and I cleaned it even though I didn't see any buildup of gunk (technical term). I carefully noted the part number, 5H2E-9Y456-FA and put it back on. Then i called NAPA. they could get the part but the guy kind of laughed and said it's expensive. He either quoted me $450 or $540, I can't remebmber which, but all I heard was "EBAY". Checking EBAY, I was able to find several that looked good, but since I am in Canada they were still going to be $300-400 after shipping, duty and currency exchange.

So I did find one on EBAY Germany. It had a GA suffix instead of FA, but I figfured it was probably just a revision number, and should probably work fine. Best of all, it was $50 Canadian plus $50 shipping for a total of $100! This was a new product and was FoMoCo so Iwas pretty confident it would be OK. Here is the link.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FOMOCO-AGR-Ve...5XZwcD&vxp=mtr


I ordered it and replaced it 2 days ago. So far no CEL and absolutely no problems starting. The idle has also been rock solid. Hopefully that was the fix and I was able to help someone else as cheap as me get an EGR valve if that is their problem. I will update this in a week or so to confirm it's still working well and no CEL, or sooner if the problem comes back.

Sorry for the long post but I was quite excited to do my first real mechanical work on an engine.