Definitely be interested to see how that goes and what all the removal entails

 

Britpart has Brand new OEM Fronts for about $1300 shipped to the lower 48 no core

 

OK I am often accused to burying the lead so........ what technique is used to get the *&^%%$* front drive shaft bolts off?
I have the star socket that barely fits and seems like I need a 12 inch extension to find a place for the ratchet, and it requires a large amount of torque to break it free and it is very still to un-screw the bolts.
Any techniques would be greatly appreciated.

OK now back to our regularly scheduled program.
I had no problem removing the wheels, brake calipers, caliper frame, or rotors. I had to rent a gear puller type 3 prong monster to push out the half shaft from the hubs (this should have been my first clue). After pushing the shafts back, I removed all of the hub/bearing bolts. All the prying, chiseling and hammering and even cursing could not get them off. I removed the tie rod joint, upper and lower ball joints with no problem and then took the spindles to a shop and had them pressed out. (this is the first time I have not been able to remove a front hub at home)

Right half shaft, not a problem. I placed a long dowel pin under the diff and above the cross member and WHACKED the big portion of the right shaft and it came.
Left half shaft, problem. I had to remove the sub frame base on the left side to get an angle for the long dowel in and more than few WHACKS got it moving.

As a side note, I changed the fluid in the two diffs and transfer case 5,000 miles ago when I first got it truck, but this fluid was dark rust colored and I can only guess that the vent tube may be compromised as well.

As it stand today, I have soaked the bolts in penetrating oil a few times, have re-read the manual on what tools are needed and what technique to use, but no help. Even if they do start to move, I cannot easily turn the shaft to make them easy to reach. I have the brakes off and the front end up on jack stands so getting it into neutral to rotate the shaft will prove fun even with large chalks on the back wheels. I plan to look under the dash, turn to position II, push the brake switch and then move the shift lever out of park and hope the car does no roll much.

Removing the one bolt in the front and right side bushings seems straight forward, but I may plan to remove the three bolts on the rear carrier and leave that bushing in place until the whole unit is removed.

On a plus side, once the diff is out, it should be easier to replace the lower steering shaft, but I would not recommend that as a normal procedure.

I am glad to be able to get back to work because the boxes are piling up against the wall in my garage and I need to pay for all of the parts I bought for this thing.
I will let you know how it goes tomorrow.

Jeff

 

I had a hell of a time with the back driveshaft bolts on mine. I just went outside and took a peek at my front shaft since I have the skid off right now. It looks like with a couple extensions and a universal you could line a impact wrench up. I may be wrong but it looked possible. I have already cleaned up for the day and didn't want to get dirty again lol.

The drivers side cv shaft is a nightmare to get free.

 

Its only 1030 AM but I think I deserve a cold adult beverage (to go with my adult language this morning) Mostly from the epiphany that I needed to put the thing in neutral and chalk the wheels before jacking up the front wheels and the difficulty of getting to the drive shaft bolts on the diff .

The Diff is out.
Army Rover, thanks for the suggestion about combination of extensions/universal joints and my electric impact gun made the difference..... BUT the best top tip to give about this project is to make sure the darn thing is in Neutral so you can rotate the drive shaft (Seems like common sense but you what they say about that?
Steve@LK8parts thanks for the quick turnaround on the steering shaft. Also, thanks for the diff info, but I went with another company. They had a core charge but free shipping both ways.
I did not remove the rear part of the drive shaft, I was able to move the drive shaft back and up enough to let the diff slide out so that saved me a few hours? of discomfort and a better inventory control of my adult beverages!

Actually not that hard compared to some things I have done. Two big things were the left half shaft and the drive shaft bolts. but as always the forum provides a wealth of info AND SUPPORT, so hats off to you all.
Any way it is out and awaiting the big heavy hunk of metal to arrive by FedEx this week.

In the mean time I can access the lower steering column from underneath very easily and yes the little stamped portion just above the u-joint seems to be the wobbly part not the u-joint itself.

Update later this week..

Jeff

 

Glad to be of help

 

Alrighty sports fans, here it is. We are at the 7th inning stretch and may have the game finished in 2 more days.

The diff is in. I was able to push the drive shaft back far enough to remove it. (thus saving me removing the transmission cross member and fighting 6 more bolts torqued on by Dr. Bruce Banner when he was angry)
The drive shaft is bolted in. The 45 nm was which is about 34 ft lb was easy enough to do, but that 90 degrees more rotation turned into about 60 degrees with a 24 in 1/2 break over bar before I could pull no more. I will recheck in a few miles
I was waiting for the o-ring to seal the right axle tube so since the manual said the tube could be removed and serviced without removing the diff. I installed the diff by myself and a small floor jack. (keep it about level, hand tight one of the 3 bolts in the ft/rear mount, shuffle it around and install the front mount bolt. While everything is loose, push the driveshaft back and move it down into place, then add the other 2 bolts for the left/rear mount.)
Speaking of the O-ring. I may have made a mistake. Since I found conflicting info about additional sealer or no additional sealer. Since I needed to push it in, turn it about 90 degrees, I decided to oil it up and bolt it in place with just the O-ring. Let me the fallacy of that decision.
I plan to finish the right side tonight or tomorrow and get it on the road before the weekend.
More to follow as I finish things up and start the "next Rover project"
Jeff

 

Nice work, I may be going after a rear one myself soon on the 2007

 

 

All is done. I will take it for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow, but a short drive around the block was much quieter. No growling, noise when I turn the wheel and no leaks 30 minutes after the trip,so as they would say: so far-so good.

I am sure you are right and my instincts said you are right but......... This gives me an excuse to get back underneath it ( as if I needed an excuse).

I plan to drive it some this weekend and give it a proper shake down.

Thanks for the support.

Jeff