Falcon website out of T bleeder valves? Whaddya think of this?
 

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...da629963e7.jpg
I copied what someone else did on another thread here. He used a 1/4 pipe tee fip, (2) 3/8 x 1/4 mip hose barbs, and a 1/4 square hose plug. He said it worked fine. My other LR3 has the Falconworks brass T bleeder. My question is ~ will those side barbs loosen and unscrew? The whole point being that the OEM bleeder disintegrated over time unexpectedly. I dont want the irony to be this one unscrewing and leaking coolant and...you know the rest - Whaddya think guys? (For my 2nd LR3)

Whatever works, works. Its just a fitting that need to hold up to only 16psi or so.

Put some thread sealer on the threads.

I chose one of these from the hardware store for a couple $
I also have a new OEM LR027661 as a backup, if I ever need to bleed from that location
https://external-content.duckduckgo....6pid%3DApi&f=1

Paranoid it'll unthread.
 

Hiya. I picked up some Permatex Red RTV high temp silicone. Will that work? Thx. Doh!! I picked up silicone gasket. I think I need the thread lock seal instead.

Paranoid it'll unthread.
 

Hiya. I picked up some Permatex Red RTV high temp silicone. Will that work? Thx. Doh! This is the wrong one. I need thread sealant / lock.

So you're the guy who went full pipe ~
 

I read in one of the threads on this similar topic that someone put in a straight brass pipe. Maybe that was you. I suppose that's more solid than a bic pen tube.

or they seep. And by the time it's cool enough to redo it with sealer you've compoletely forgotten about it and moved on to other chores.

The homemade brass tee setup you have there will work just fine and will likely never fail again, but is overkill and a bit more expensive than necessary in my opinion. When I priced out that exact setup to fix my LR3 a couple years ago, it added up to over $20 in fittings (maybe I shop at the wrong places). I've never used the upper bleeder so I "straight piped" it like douglastic described above and have never had an issue.

If you have a local Rover dealership it's likely cheaper to get the part from them but if you have to add shipping it's probably going to be $20 anyways.
The straight pipe idea is really a better way to go, didn't think of that at the time I needed my tee-when mine went, I had smelled some coolant, saw the tee weeping and said "hmm", touched it and it exploded at my touch. I was liucky to not get coolant burns.