First problem is the front AC blower. Typically going to be the resistor/module(ordered one already/removed old one and inspected) but shouldn't the fan run if "jumped" off a direct 12v source?

Second is the vehicle holds a gear too long but shifts very smooth. Shifts normal until I kick down everything hard and then it holds the gear too long with no faults. At first I was thinking fluid flush or filter change(still going to do it) but in the mean time would a difference in tires/pressure cause this issue? I'd be suprised if the transmission is low on fluid because it shifts very smooth in command shift mode(and goes through gears as normal). I can also make it shift normal by quickly changing from sport back to D.

Third the alarm randomly goes off when locked. If I lock the vehicle without the key fob will it still activate the alarm until I can track it down(suspect hood latch)?

How hard is it to find someone with 18" wheels to trade or to just buy? These 19's are a curse in finding a good set of off road tires. Looks like I'm stuck with Goodyear MTR's which are good but pretty starved for choice.

I have a scan tool but its not land rover specific(Autocom+) which can activate most of the land rover specific items(reset ABS, Check codes, activate sensors,etc) but it wont activate a certain section of available options which bothers me(can't disable TPMS only read fault/Apparently its the spare tire sensor thats bad). What does everyone around here use and how much does it cost?

These days I understand that trying to work on modern cars without a good diagnostic tool is like holding a wrench, staring at a bolt and expecting it to turn.

Crappy for sale pic as a tax for help(only owned it for 24hrs).

 

I also forgot to mention that I'm replacing all brake pads.

Because the sensors are a wear item,are a pain in the ***, I have to order them, They cost money, and I don't need them(I have freaking eyes).

Can I just "jump" the sensors with wire/solder(i'm very good at soldering/electronics)? It seems like a simple switch that is activated when the sensors get worn.

 

I'll comment on the area in which I have some expertise, the scan tool question. I know of two major players here: the Nanocom a Evolution Products - NCOM40 Discovery 3 2005 - 2009 kit - NANOCOM Diagnostics and the GAP Diagnostic IIDTool https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

I chose the IIDTool BT because it is physically smaller and has the ability to connect with a smartphone or tablet via Bluetooth (BT) for additional functionality like a larger display, emailing fault codes, etc.

Have fun with your LR3!

-Rob

 

The blower resistor controls ground, not power, so just jumping voltage to it is not enough, you can test it by applying ground to the black wire from it, when the HVAC is turned on - use care, it's a decent load.

It holding a gear is most commonly an issue with your brake lights/brake light switch, or tires. Check all of your brake lights, with the headlights turned both on and off(if one goes out when headlights are turned on, take a close look at the ground pin in the bulb socket) and also make sure your tires are all the same size, and near tread wear - one the wrong size will cause the vehicle to think it's in a turn, and prevent an upshift.

Manually locking the vehicle will not set the alarm, so you will be fine to do that, but make sure that you lock it in a way that the tailgate knows to be locked as well.

The brake sensors are simple switches and a live input, so yes, you can 'close' the switch if you want to.

I don't know where you're located, but I see sets of 18s for sale on craigslist pretty often, and fairly cheap.

 

Both seem great and I too would go for the IIDtool but honestly it doesn't offer much over what I have now. I'm still investigating but like that it can disable certain features(like the TPMS) vs my tool that can just read/fix errors with the TPMS.

I have bigger fish to fry at the moment.

The holding gear was "fixed" by my suspicion of the previous owner saying he had a blowout and had to get a new tire to get his family home.

It was mismatched, full of tread(the other tires are almost done) so I reduced the pressure in that tire to decrease the overall diameter and the issue disappeared.

The alarm issue has been narrowed down to the stupid hood sensor. I can't fathom someone trying to steal my engine so i'm going to make it closed loop along with the brake sensors.

Thanks for the info in the resistor BTW.

Not much in the way of land rover wheels in my area but i'll keep an eye out.

Worst case scenario i'll just buy the 255/55/19 Goodyear MTR's. EDIT I meant Duratrac not MTR.

 

Transmission issue disappeared after adjusting for the tire. Its VERY sensitive to diameter.

Front brakes are done. Straight forward as can be but my front right rotor was trashed. New one installed and brake wear sensor soldered, heat shrinked and protected from the elements.

Front hood sensor was setting off alarm. I did the same thing as the brake sensor and just soldered/capped it.

Things left on the list
Test resistor for ac(although new resistor will be here monday/might wait)
Rear pads(have already but need installed)

Rust prevention/conversion.. Ive used ospho rust converter in the past and its amazing. "OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black." Wipe on, Spray off, and Paint to protect. This LR3 came from Pennsylvania so rust is prevalent.

Oil change
Check transfer case fluid
Check Diffs/fluid
Leatherique leather dye/conditioner.. Call, give them your interior code and it works miracles. Fill cracks with their filler, light sand and dye. It turned my worn BMW seats into brand new.
Buy/install Goodyear Duratrac tires on the 19's or get lucky and find some 18's locally for a decent price.

BTW I bought this truck for $7,500 with 125k miles and as far as I know it has every option besides the HD package.

 

The IIDTool can also interact with the EAS, and in so doing has three features you really want:
1. Ability to store taller height settings so you can clear larger tires.
2. Ability to put the EAS in "Build Mode" and hence disable self-leveling features and all that. This is good if you are going overlanding and will see nothing technical but don't want to risk an EAS meltdown that puts you on bumpstops.
3. It can recalibrate the EAS entirely. If you rip the wiring harness or a sensor fails, you'll need this.

As for wheels and tires. If you are patient you will find 18s. You can go with the Goodyears on 19s now, but then keep looking for 18s and just sell the GYs later.

Question on the gear holding: What did that feel like? Was it really that prevalent? Whenever people describe problems like that I want to ask "how do you know it was too held too long?" Was it super high RPMs? Please elaborate. Thanks!

 

It was obvious and would hold the gear all the way up to 5k if I let it.

It doesn't happen anymore and was an issue with mismatched tire tread and "resolved" by reducing the pressure in the tire with the most tread to make it smaller. This obviously is a temp fix until I can buy tires.

My tool only lets me release and calibrate the springs individually. I'll look into it.

 

5k in Sport Mode doesn't sound that unreasonably high, to me. I'm a little surprised that such a subtle "fix" would make such an impact. Seems like if that were the case, someone would've posted a similar story on one of the 4 message boards I read/post on over the past 10 years.

It's fully possible that this is exactly what's happening, but it's also possible that there are multiple variables at play. Maybe your driving behavior has changed now that you are sensitive to the shift-hold. Maybe your transmission adapted to your driving habits as well.

 

I searched the problem and found a similar story and the guy recently had his tires rotated on his Disco 3 and he rotated them back and the problem disappeared.

Trust me I've put 100 miles on the truck since and its not me, not sport mode, low fluid,etc.

I also used my scan tool to clear the adaptations and the problem persisted and was only solved with the pressure changes.

We're talking about the difference between 3 bald slick tires vs 1 brand new tire so even though the tire size is the same it has an affect. I don't really have an explanation as to what the vehicle was thinking when holding a gear only that it did and now it doesn't.