Installed new bonnet struts today.
 

With the snow going and the sun out, today was a good day to install a pair of new bonnet struts I ordered from BP Utah.

It appears the new struts are uprated from the original LR branded struts from back in 2005; at least that is my impression as the replacement Made in USA Stabilus branded struts measure 18mm OD whereas the original Land Rover marked struts were 15mm OD.

The action of the new struts feels good as far as lifting the bonnet and also lowering it; well certainly better than the previous where for the last month I needed a stick to hold up the hood.

I was waiting for warmer weather as sometimes that is the problem; in this case, it was old age.

I also installed a new 40 amp front heater fan relay replacing the existing R16 relay in the engine compartment fuse box. The original 40 amp relay still seemed OK, however there is an argument to say that replacement of that relay after near ten years service has merit. The old relay goes into my spare parts collection. The relay part number is YWB500060 and incorporates the little resistor, (or diode), within to absorb back emf, as did the original.

I am thinking that it may be time for me to do this same sort of thing with the lift gate struts.

I remember reading a post (likely yours, Bruce) about the ball stud working loose on one side or the other, but I can't remember where. If you (or anyone else) could re-post this info it would be greatly appreciated.

Torque relaxation - rear right side upper hatch strut!
 

I have mentioned it a few times in a few threads but the best link you are probably recalling is below. This relates to what most would call the right rear upper hatch strut retainer ball self unscrewing; Land Rover characterizes this as a "Torque Relaxation".

Well that may be a fine descriptor kind of along the lines of slightly pregnant, but when the ball drops, the owner tends to hit the roof as the little nut the ball screwed into was installed just prior to the whole interior being installed and hence to get at it, it seems most of the interior has to be removed.

That is not quite true any longer, and is why the thread is 18 pages long plus the problem still occurs on the D4/LR4 - that is what I call relaxed.

The best procedure is to tighten the ball up prior to it coming unattached. The thread does however provide a couple of not so simple alternatives to total removal of the interior - well the dash, door panels, and most seats can remain.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Go and check your tailgate struts now!

The new struts are designed to keep the hood up with one strut. I tested that when I fitted mine, the old one (the remaining good one) would not, but the new one would.

The OE struts seem perfectly fine to me...

Replacing both struts at the same time good practice.
 

That is correct; one new strut will hold the bonnet up, at least in warm weather anyway. It was about -5F when I installed my new pair and one held the hood OK but I would not be so certain in cold weather.

Anyway, the dealer said to replace both struts at the same time as what seems OK can lead to a twisted hood later on as the one good strut starts to carry the full load as the older strut slowly gives out but is not obvious.

...and the snow is back again.

Ha!!

At least you got a some sort of warning..I was checking oil level , under the hood, pulled out the dipstick and suddenly felt a heavy flat object on my head. My hood collapsed very quickly , right after opening , one day, THEN I figured , it is time to buy a new set of struts, which are beefier in fact...I wonder if rear struts are stronger and bigger , then old ones, as current ones have hard time to lift tailgate completely in Winter and when I install a rear ladder in Springtime, it has a hard time as well to lift the gate up..

thanks Bruce.