Issues after valve block replacement
 

Well, after trying to rebuild with new O rings (which didn't work) I bought a new front valve. Replaced, no issues.

However, I get a fault now - it keeps thinking that there is an obstacle underneath and keeps raising it to offload and then to extended height. At first I though I'd left something under there, but no.

So... Then I lower to access height. It still tells me there is an "obstacle" and begins to raise again and asks me to reset the height. Back to normal...then tells me there is an obstacle...and so on.

I did take it for a test drive and no issues (but I think it keeps it at normal height anyway.

Also of note:

I used the GAP tool to see if I could play with the heights or reset. However, the one side (passenger front - the side I removed the wheel arch to get to the valve), won't individually raise...which is weird. Is there an EAS reset? Issue with the height sensor?

Just has a thought - I may have got the lines that run in to the valve block mixed up (rolls eyes). The green is the air in, yes...but the two Can anyone tell me which one (left to the upper etc) is supposed to go where?

Green is not air in, green is driver side.

Yes, I see that now - I just found the diagram.

Would there be an issue if I mixed up the inlet / RHF side? or would the thing just not operate at all?

So I did a hard reset and it seemed to take care of things. However, I now get this error. Strangely every time I enter the driveway.

does anyone know what this is?


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...f37adf2dc3.png

That would denote a leak at a valve block. Again, the only place the pressure is monitored in the "main gallery". The main galley is simply just the piping of the system and a bit of the compressor (like the dryer). So imagine a pipe going from front to back of vehicle. Then at the center there are two openings, one opening has the pressure sensor and the other is a valve for the reservoir. So the only places air can enter would be at the front or back end of the pipe, which would mean a valve block is leaking and letting air enter the main gallery. Or you can have a leak at the reservoir which also dumps into the main gallery. By its design, the main gallery bleeds out air and is in fact vented before the compressor will run again, you can often hear the "disco fart". If your driveway has a pretty big bump as you enter, then it could be a bad valve block letting in a bunch of air from a strut as it compresses.

Thank you for the reply.

I'm wondering is it usual practice to replace the valve WITH the attached new connectors? I would imagine this is just cutting the pipe and refitting (which may look easier than it is). I just replaced as it was on to the new valve.

In the case that I SHOULD use the connectors, is there a preferred way of getting them on there?

EDIT - I assume these are Voss connectors...and as such I should just be able to remove the white pin and then put the hose in after cutting the old assembly off?

I DID NOT do this originally - instead due to naivety I just screwed the original in without amending the piping to the new connectors.

This may explain a leak - however I did soapy water test it and no bubbles. I can't believe I have to pull that damn thing apart again...

FWIW - I have rebuilt my front block 2x and my rear 1x and always re-used the original connections - no leaks here

Not to say something didn't happen to your connections to cause leaks, just that it's not necessary to replace every time you touch them

When I replaced my front block it started doing the same thing... sometimes. Depends on weather... weird I know. Anyway, when it goes to raise after access height is toggled, just re-toggle to access height again. Should work the second time but I've had to do it 2 or 3 times occasionally. Seems to be a delay of the air quick enough triggering an obstacle response.
Definitely a pain but easier than trying to diagnose the anomaly's that seem to ne part and parcel with Land Rover ownership. :)