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String test? No, the string is what I secure to the line to help install it by basically positioning the hose at the metal nipple it slides onto. The string is then pulled to help slide it on. Worked well, much easier than taking the intake off. Just cut the string to remove. And dont forget a clamp....
Last edited by DakotaTravler; 06-23-2022 at 04:58 PM.
I remember that the Bolts were a bit tricky to remove, when I swapped my Thermostat Housing. Torx head bolts. Probably original. Corroded. So I replaced with stainless steel hex head bolts, upon reassembly.
I dug into it again this morning and am stuck trying to get the TB housing off the intake manifold. I've got the TB off but cannot access the 4th bolt below the EGR. Any tips on that would be appreciated.
In my search this morning, I removed the big skid plate all the way and found the top drivers side of the bell housing to be all gross and damp. Smelled strongly of coolant so if I read one of your first posts right, then the leak is probably from the hose that goes into the back of the water pump or t-stat. Which kinda jives with the small dried pools I could see in the voids and the rest of the system being dry and dusty on the outside.
So if there are any tips aside from totally removing the top intake, injectors and fuel rails or whatever then I would love to hear them.
EDIT / UPDATE:
Got the back of the TB off the intake! Needed a long magnet and to relax. I also used this video which I've started at the time where he provided the long socket extension and magnet trick:
Now that it's off I found the land of disappointment. It's basically dry under there. I can see the big hose out the back of the housing but then it goes under the t-stat housing and I can't see where it goes after that or if it's the source of the leak.
Some photos for reference below. The you can see some of the dry pooling from coolant in the little dips next to the engine casting (?) studs. The rest, looks dry as far as I can see.
So what next - remove the top?
An overview shot with the throttle body removed. Driver's side closer. Passenger side closer.
Last edited by droolyFace; 06-24-2022 at 06:26 PM.
Reason: Update
Finally found a coolant system pressure tester that fit and worked! That was a win.
Located the leak behind the water pump pulley which sucks because that's new. After pumping it to 15 psi +/- it leaked pretty good all the way to the ground. Backtracking up the block and then some contorted hand and arm movements found the leak.
Put the throttle body back together, didn't lose or strip a bolt and it fired up and ran! A second win and confidence booster.
Rented a 36mm fan tool to remove the fan but that's a tomorrow thing (way to hot in the garage now) and attack it again tomorrow.
So, the new question for the collective is: what can I check on the water pump to rule out the install as the problem or the pump/gasket itself?
Remove pump and inspect gaskets. The pump may be a single piece or it may have two halves. Its also possible the pump is defective and leaking out of the pulley spindle. What brand was the pump? OEM is best, fo course, but some say the AC Delco is a soldi pump at a very affordable price.
In talking to them, they said that was an OEM one and is made by Airtex. It's not genuine and when I asked about the possibility of a leak they were surprised it would leak. It also came with a genuine metal gasket and not a cardboard one.
Well Airtex could be OEM, not sure. But an Airtex 4.4L for LR3 suggested retail price is $60. So if you paid twice that much and it failed, I am sure AB will stand behind it. Really at this point it should go back to the indy shop, if they installed it and its leaking, well...
06-21-2022, 07:11 PM
