Maintenance Schedule (tranny & diff oils)
 

Gents,

I have a 2005 LR3 with 94k and was considering changing both diff, tranny and transfercase fluid until I read the LR maintenance schedule. I do have the HD package. Anyone else doing earlier changes on the open diffs or tranny?

Ill be doing the 75k fluids next week with plugs and some CV joints.

From the schedule -


Automatic Transmission
Specifications (303-01A )
Specifications (303-01B )
1. Every 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km): Renew automatic transmission fluid - 4.0 litre engine. For additional information, refer to Specifications (307-01A )
Foradditionalinformation,referto TransmissionFluidDrainandRefill(307-01A)
2. Every 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km): Renew automatic transmission fluid - 4.4 litre engine. For additional information, refer to Specifications (307-01C )
Foradditionalinformation,referto TransmissionFluidDrainandRefill(307-01B)

Transfer Case
1. Every 5 years or 75,000 miles (120,000 km): Renew transfer case oil. For additional information, refer to Specifications (308-07B )
Foradditionalinformation,referto TransferCaseDrainingandFilling(308-07B)

Differential Assemblies
1. Every 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km): Renew front differential oil. For additional information, refer to Specifications (205-03 )
Foradditionalinformation,referto DifferentialDrainingandFilling(205-03)
2. Every 5 years or 75,000 miles (120,000 km): Renew rear 'Electronic Torque Managed (ETM)' differential oil. For additional information, refer to Specifications (205 -02 )
Foradditionalinformation,referto DifferentialDrainingandFilling(205-03)
3. Every 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km): Renew rear 'OPEN' differential oil. For additional information, refer to Specifications (205-02 )
Foradditionalinformation,referto DifferentialDrainingandFilling(205-02)

OK. That schedule was written by guys who know the truck will be way beyond warranty when you do that. Consider that the "primitive" D1 has almost 3 times the fluid capacity of the LR3 front differential. This is splash lubrication, the fluid moves the heat to the outer case, which is also smaller on the LR3. The LR3 weighs 1300 pounds more (whadya feed that Land Whale ?), so more stress on the drive train. The LR3 has more HP. So more stress on drive train. And that 22 ounces of fluid is going to keep everything just peachy for 150,000 miles.

Another member posted about charges of about $2300 for a front differential for an LR3.

IMHO, changing far more frequently than service schedule is just good insurance. It has a breather tube, so water can get in, or the tube can become clogged and moisture can't evaporate. Mud chiggers don't care if you are running the synthetic unobtainum fluid. 30,000 miles seems better.

If you are not changing the fluid except once every ten years, then how will you know it is contaminated before then?

Here is the whole maintenance schedule for inquiring minds. They halve the engine oil drain interval for arduous service, but make no similar move for the the other lubes.

The one fellow who will always win in this situation is my pal Robin Bastid, he loves big repairs.

Ive been thinking about this and Im probably going to do both the diffs as well as the transfer case. Transmission I might wait till the 10 year mark which ill probably be at 120k.

A lot of service shops won't do a tranny flush after a certain miles point because of the possibility of loose gunk causing tranny problems. You might want to ask around on that. Kind of hard to know what condition it is in with no dipstick. And it is brown fluid to start with.

Maintenance schedule is for leased vehicles.
 

As in the above post, the maintenance schedule was developed for leased vehicles so LR would not have to pay for any oil changes during the lease period as they are expensive; owned is very different as not doing them is really expensive.

All oils including the tranny should be replaced between 50,000 and 100,000 miles.

I own mine so between 50 and 75 thousand miles, all oils got changed and I am pleased to say all the oils looked good when removed. Yes, some metal shaving / metal paste on the magnetic plugs as one would expect but colour and smell all OK.

The tranny oil/filter/plastic pan change was the surprise. I figured all was well with the tranny and it was, however new oil smoothed out the shifts, gave me maybe another mile per gallon, improved acceleration and generally make the 3 feel new again.

Hi am new in this forum and have been able to learn alot from your post I hope you will be here to answer my question am just afriad becausethis post is year now

I bought a 3 se 4.0L engine am in Lagos Nigeria no dealer or mechanics for lr am sure the one we have are only doing try and error they are just the best we have.

I want to do some oil change as i have 56k miles on my LR we dont have tose oil required here but I will try myvery best and order from the US, most euipment needed are not availble here and am sick as I need to get my 3 maintained.

I will need advice so s to make sure this is dne by the mechs we have with adeqaute info so as not to damage other

Please follow the link below and you can download the entire shop manual set for the LR3.

Thanks for your response just that all tose oil and part for replacement are not available in Nigeria too many fake and even bad fuel

I recommend t-box, and both differentials, be the rear locking or not, at or before 75k. For fluid on the diffs, we use a high quality (Motul) full synthetic, with a LSD friction modifier for the locking units. Factory fluid only for the t-box. Haven't seen issues with the trans going to 150k, big thing with it is making sure fluid level doesn't get low from a leak. Again, high quality synthetic ATF that meets the specs, we use, and have had great results with the undyed BG Syn. ATF.
One thing that is not mentioned in the LR3 maintenance schedule is replacing the filter (entire pan in this case) for the transmission. The LR4, and +10my vehicles that have the very same ZF 6HP26 transmissions recommend fluid and filter replacement at 150k / 10years. I strongly recommend replacing the pan (and valve body sleeve, even if just preventative) at that mark.