No fog lamps/no low range, dead switches?
 

I recently bought a 2008 LR3. Neither the front or the rear fog lamps work. It seems odd they failed in a pair. I checked the fuses behind the glove box (separate fuse for front and rear) and both looked fine. I'm thinking the headlamp switch is dead It wasn't the headlight switch, but the headlights work as expected. I also could not locate what the manual calls the "tow hitch fuses" which would be in the rear cargo compartment. There is no fuse box, I do have rear A/C not sure if that is related.

Separately, the low range does not engage. When I hit the switch I get no response at all. No messages on the computer. Again I'm thinking the switch is dead and I need to replace that panel with the switch embedded. Terrain response knob and suspension height work fine.

I'm also missing one of the TPMS sensors. What is the correct MHZ? 315 or 433? I can't seem to find a reliable answer. Thanks!

Some thoughts
 

We can take these one at a time.

1.Fog lights: make sure the bulbs are good, make sure there is power to the socket, make sure there is power at the fuze box (when the ignition and lights are on)APull the switch and make sure it functions in all positions, a good wire diagram would help. After that, you may have wire harness problem and those seem to take up alot of time for soooo many problems.

2. Low Range. Make sure you are in Neutral and have your foot on the brake before you push the switch to the low range. If so, it could be corrosion in the switch pack or wire harness, so pull it up from the console and look at the connectors and wire harness.

3. In the US the TPMS is 355 MHz. Available everywhere (including Firestone or Tire Discount)

i am sure there are those out there that will have a better plan, but at least these are a place to start.

I updated the original post after some work. All issues sorted but the front and rear fogs.

It was not the headlight switch. Fuses seem fine. Bulbs seem fine. I'm thinking this is odd harness issue. Any suggestions?

So, the only point in common that I can see between the front and rear fog lights besides the headlight switch (already ruled out) and the ignition components (switch, relays, fuseable links, etc.) is fuseable link 2E. I would imagine that if any of the ignition components were faulty, you would have a lot more problems besides the fog lights.

Try swapping link 2E and if that doesn't solve it, you may want to start looking at your grounding points. When you turn the fog lights on, do you get an indicator on the dash, or do you not get anything at all?

Oh, and are you in the US? NAS truck? Just to make sure I'm looking at the right diagram...

As far as the towing electrics, don't worry about it. Despite what the manual says, there are no fuses in the trunk. They are all located in the glove box.

Thanks for the quick reply. It is a US/NAS truck. Good to know I wasn't crazy not being able to find the fuse box.

I have no other issues besides this. When I turn the head lamps on I get the green indicator but otherwise I get nothing additional when I turn on the fogs. It acts like they don't exist. I'll try replacing the link as you suggested then looking at grounds. I assumed the fog lights share grounds with other components and I'd be having more issues.

I know there was also a problem with the front fog light wiring chaffing and shorting out behind the fog lights themselves. Don't know if this would affect the rears too though and besides, I would think that it would just blow the fuse if that were the case.

Perhaps somebody else can chime in with the particulars of that chaffing issue as I don't recall off the top of my head.

I looked into that and while there was signs of chafing, I addressed it and it was never enough to blow the fuses. Also like you mentioned that should not effect the rear fog lights.

Turns out it was just the link! The "normal" manual doesn't seem to label that link beyond a picture so I must have over looked it. Good to know. Also for future reference to anyone else, the transfer case was solved with a new switch and it is 315mhz. Thanks for the help!

Glad it turned out to be a simple fix! Nobody likes having to hunt down wiring harness issues.