I bought it because it had 100,300 miles (now 100,500...)
My other LR3 has just shy of 200,000 miles but was meticulous with service and 4,000 mile oil changes and freeway 80%.

Note - Goal here is to get opinion on whether to sell or keep, and ideally if theres anyone in the SF bay area who's so into these they can help me out $ (instead of $$$$), but really looking for opinions too -

Not that I care sometimes, but my indie shop shamed me to never pick up another rover without pre-inspection, but sometimes shops are more expensive than DIYers (*which im not, landy lovers ~). Example, that $450 key replacement quote. Gimme a break. I know my IID tool can program a new one. I'm just too chicken to try it (I've had my IID tool for a while, hesitant to mess up any settings). Gah!

Here is diagnosis - (mind you, indie LR shop put figures like $450 for a new key ~ I have an IID Tool, and... I'm not a mechanic. I'm just a gal who loves her LR3s).

Background - I bought it from a family guy who as the 2nd owner had it 12 years and did his own work (ok, facepalm). He changed his synthetic mobil 1 every 10,000 miles). Lesson learned (above information red flags and meaninglessness).

List -

*Thermostat / Water Pump / Coolant Bottle - $1300
(Mechanic said FLOAT in coolant bottle is stuck and thermostat is leaking)
*Air Supply Fault - valve or struts, needs diagnosis - $1300
(previous owner bought RINGS for the valves and left them in my glove box) ?
*Fault code for weak air suspension compressor
*Control Arm clunk (not so bad when driving)
*Tie Rod Freeplay
*Transmission Leak a Lot the mechanic said - $1150
*Battery - $259
*Alternator Whine - $800
*Front Diff Noise (not sure which diff mechanic said is whining or both)
*Rear Diff Noisy

Mechanic said without Diffs ~ $8377.00
With Diff~ $15,377.00

Opinions? Keep & Fix or Sell ?? Chime in Landy lovers ~

 

If you intend to do the work yourself most of that is pretty cheap to do. If you intend to have it all done by a mechanic I would have to think about it long and hard. Perhaps prioritize the important problems and take them on a bit at a time.

 

I'd probably get a second quote from another rover shop as those prices seem really high. If you are mechanical an air compressor and valve block rebuild is pretty easy and cheap and has a high probability of fixing your air suspension faults. I would also highly recommend a GAP tool so you can do your own diag and computer programming. A decent battery from AutoZone is about $180 and you only need a 13mm and a 10mm socket to change it. The diff noise you may be stuck with needing new ones. You can see what changing the fluid to full synthetic does in them but my first LR3 had a rebuilt front diff in it so it doesn't surprise me that it is on it's way out. They don't hold much fluid so once you get them sorted out I'd probably change the fluid every 18-24 months as cheap insurance.

 

Trans leak is most likely from the mechatronics sleeve. May as well swap to the 2 piece filter and pan. It can be done in the driveway, but parts of it will be a pain in the a**.

Suspension issues, at that cost I'd consider changing to springs. You lose the adjustable height but gain the piece of mind if it not breaking and not going down the repair rabbit hole.

Bottle, t stat and water pump can be done in the driveway too. None of that is too complicated. Only looking at about 300 in parts there

 

Hey BlacknGold,

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add, in my original post, that the person I bought it from only changed the oil (synthetic 5w30 Mobil 1) every 10,000 miles. I'm paranoid so my other LR3 gets changed every 4,000 miles and that one has been consistent like that its whole life.

So I'm writing to ask - (what's your opinion on the 10,000 mile oil change in THIS situation) and did this guy wreck the engine too? (Dunno about wreck, but he certainly didnt baby it like mine has been) --- followed maintenance schedule to a T. Thanks!

 

Tough to say, I mean it's far from ideal maintenance but it's not necessarily a death sentence.

Biggest thing is how does the motor sound idling and under acceleration. Is it pinging, knocking, noisy? Or does it run smooth and relatively quiet.

Also is the power and torque up to normal levels at different speeds. Feeling underpowered can be a sign of trouble too.

For more piece of mind you can send some oil in to a lab and have it tested.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engine-types/gasoline/#

 

If you're going to pay for the work, sell the vehicle. You can easily get a relatively sorted LR3 for that kind of money. If you want it as a project, I'd say it is a good one with lots of potential. I wouldn't say 10k between oil changes on synthetic oil is terrible and alone won't wreck the engine.