I have a 2006 LR3 with an extra cut key blade and an extra transmitter key fob with a cut blade as well (I've already programmed my fob using my GAP IID tool). I'm going to hide the extra key blade somewhere on the exterior so that I can get into the locked vehicle if I lose my regular key ring, but mere access to the inside isn't going to get me home. My plan is to hide the extra transmitter fob somewhere tucked away on the inside so it'll be available as a backup. What I'm not sure of is whether this year and model Land Rover does anything related to sensing whether a correct key fob is nearby (my 2020 Chevy Bolt's fob, for example, allows me to open a locked hatch or door as long as I'm standing nearby with my fob, even if it's in my pocket and no buttons are pressed). Ideally there is no proximity sensor and the LR3 fob is dead to the world until I push a button. If that's the case, I can just hide the extra fob and not think about it until I need it. If it is active or reactive in some way even when no buttons are pushed, then I assume I'll need to pull the fob's battery out and store it along with the battery-less fob in the interior hiding spot. Worst case scenario is that even without the battery, the mere presence of an extra key fob permanently inside the LR3 causes some sort of problems during normal operation. If that's true, then I need to know so for sure before getting locked out or worse.

So what's the answer?
1) Fob with battery installed can be left inside vehicle with no negative impact on normal operations?
2) Fob can be left inside vehicle with no negative impact on normal operations as long as fob battery is stored separately?
3) Fob cannot be left inside vehicle even if fob battery removed?

Thanks for your advice!

Nick in Palm Springs

 

I think you're just going to have to try it out and see.

My 2005 is dumb enough to have two key FOBs in it. I did that this weekend in fact. I usually carry a spare when I go camping or off-roading and then hand that spare to a buddy (also on the trip) until I'm back on the road home. While going to/from the trail....no issues.

However, yours is a 2006. I happen to also own an '06 and I do think it's a little smarter in terms of key sensing. I can lock myself out of my 2005. I don't think I can lock myself out of the '06....so yeah, you'll have to do some experimenting.

 

I am, of course, willing to take one for the team. I'll report back on the experiment, assuming that my computer isn't inside my now permanently locked LR3.

 

Its just a standard RDIF fob setup. Its not bluetooth-like. So unless its really, really close to the pick-up ring in the ignition it will have no clue there is a fob nearby. Its a passive system too, so there is no active pinging/communication/etc. The remote button functions are a completely separate part of the key circuitry unrealted to starting, those operate on a rolling code like a garage door opener. I regularly keep a spare key around the truck when camping. Rule of thumb is to always have one outside the truck. But when driving the spare is sitting in the front cup holder.

If you want a good spot to hide it, you could secure it via velcro to the panel inside that is just below the third brake light. Its a panel that is really easy to remove yet no one would look for a key there if they snoop around.

 

Excellent intel. Thanks!

Nick in Palm Springs

 

Yeah....what he said. ^
Dakota is generally correct about everything. Also, I confirmed last night that the '06 will also allow me to lock the key fob in the vehicle.

 

Fob battery removal requires desoldering - it's not a drop in CR2032 like most standard fobs (since it is rechargeable)
So either plan to rotate using the fobs so the batteries stay topped up, or let the fob battery die w/o use over time and eventually replace it (VL2330/HFN)

 

Wouldn't a totally dead but not permanently failed battery receive some juice through the key when in a position other than 0? I though a dead fob battery wasn't a fatal defect when trying to start the car. It might not open the doors remotely, but that's what the key blade is for.

Either way, rotating the fobs seems like a practical idea. I'm thinking of a schedule of switching every solstice or equinox. I've encased the new spare fob in plastic, wrapped it in the poor man's Faraday Cage (aluminum foil), and inserted everything into a sealable plastic bag. I hid it, but no, I'm not telling anyone where...

Thanks,

Nick in Palm Springs

 

The starting circuit is separate from the buttons. The buttons require the battery, the starting circuit is induction based and the battery is not needed/used. Induction also keeps the battery charged though when its inserted into the ignition. In theory the battery should last a very long time if not being used for remote functions.

 

Cool!

Nick in Palm Springs