using oil extraction pump for oil change
 

Good Morning All, has anyone use an oil extraction pump for removing old oil. This is the type that uses a tube that goes down the oil dip stick hole. I know that some high end manufactures are now making engine blocks without drain plugs. with the need to drop the oil pan, this device seems like a great way to easily do oil changes on our LR3s. All opinions and experiences appreciated. Phil

2005 LR3 HSE 88k miles
Tonga Green and Alpaca Interior

I have one of these:
Mityvac Pneumatic Fluid Evacuator — 8.8 Liters, Model# MV7300 | Oil Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment

I absolutely hate that method of oil service, so if it has a drain plug, I still use it. But I have used the MityVac before, it does do a good job. One good feature, is that its graduated, so if you have a vehicle where you need to measure the oil level and it doesn't have a dipstick and the electronic level sensor is kaput, this works well for that as well.

One advantage to this is that it will save the life of the threads on the (aluminum) oil pan on the LR3. My service rep just informed me that mine can likely only survive one or two more services, then I'll be needing a new pan.

No biggie...just $3700 installed (plus tax) !!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the replies, LR Techniker, why do you hate that method? It is supposed to be the way to go, or at least that is what I am led to believe. Phil

Its the "way to go" because with cartridge filters being installed on the top, there is no reason to raise the vehicle during oil services. But we use these services as a reason to raise the vehicle and inspect the vehicle.
Also, with as many skid shields and under pannelings as these vehicles have, its less stuff to remove, but again, it interferes with the inspection process.

Its also no secret, that some amount of debris can be expected. Usually very fine and very minimal, but over a period of time, it collects in the sump. I have yet to be convinced that sucking the oil out from the top, does as good as job as letting it drain out of the bottom.

And for what its worth, oil pan threads usually last a good while if you simply don't over torque the drain plug. Aluminum pans have been around for many decades, they just require the tech to be mindful when re-installing.

I have hated the extractors for the longest time. My new MINIs are done this way at the dealer. My LR4 I see has the tube and filter on top. But, as I crawled underneath to do the oil change I found half the skid plate bolts missing. Seems the JiffyLube (sticker on windshield) forgot where they went. Did a right oil change to Castrol and Genuine filter as still under warranty. Am ASE Certified so was done properly. Really thinking of getting extraction pump for next time, would be easier and since I service all my own vehicles I know the condition they are in and have 15 yrs. experience on Rovers and 49 yrs. on Jags, covered both ways.

@LR Techniker: fair observation. My LR3 has 113k miles and the oil has been changed on an average of every 3500 miles. That works out to about 32 oil changes. ...so are you saying that the theads on the pan should last forever?

I don't disagree that the LR Service Dept could very well be over-torquing, considering that they've torqued the living $hit out of my lugnuts in the past until I explicitly recommended they torque them to 110 ft-lbs.

So, I have three options now:

1. Use the vacuum method.
2. Get a new oil pan for $4000.
3. Deny the LR Service Department observation that the pan threads are ragged
and simply instruct them to "go easy" on the torquing.

Which one sounds most adviseable?

3.0 V6 LR4 engine - probably no drain plug.
 

No hole in the bottom just seems wrong but I suppose throw away oil filters and paper air filters in lieu of oil bath also seemed wrong at the time.

Vehicles seem to be heading toward "sealed for life" design so I suppose even being able to change the oil is considered some sort of throwback.

LR already tired that "sealed for life story" with the ZF trannys and I suppose it was OK for lease vehicles but not so good for true owners.

I guess maybe sucking the oil out would not be that hard to adapt to given a four grand alternative. I thought about helicoils but having the trap door open up on the Interstate does not sound too good either.

Some of the guys in Australia have installed those "quick open" hose drains that one sees on aircraft piston engines. The trouble is they hang down a bit so one has to known what one is doing before installing one - have to cut a round hole into the skid plate at the right place it seems. Nothing hangs down past the plate and the hole provides space for movement plus one can push the hose on without removing the skid plate. The safety wire tends to guarantee the drain will not unscrew or open up by itself - has worked well on my plane to date anyway.

I expect the new LR designed and manufactured 3.0L V6 that is starting to show up on the LR4 et all, does not have an oil pan drain - the future is now - embrace it with gusto!:(

It doesn't make sense to me to use an aluminum pan with a steel bolt for oil changes. My smart car uses this and no matter how careful I was about torquing the bolt, it always was tighter when I removed it. Last few oil changes were dona at a rapid oil change type place and they did end up stripping the threads. Luckily I was able to get a longer plug and it sealed.

Now I use an oil extractor and I should have done this a long time ago!! Much less mess than using a drain pan, and I can change oil in 1/2 the time without jacking up the car. Mine is a smaller extractor so I'd have to empty it to use it on the LR but I'd give it a try!!

Given your current scenario, it may seem like the way to go, but I'm not sure your LR3 was designed to be serviced with the vacuum method. The newer engines that are, have a port under the oil cap for the oil sucker to attach. Engines that don't have this, you will have to rely on sucking out through the dipstick hole and I'm not sure how well that will work.

Also, consider switching to full synthetic oil. It will double your oil service interval, cutting the number of changes in half.