Thanks for the feedback, Techniker. I don't remember if I'm full synthetic or blend, but my oil change interval is 3750 miles because I off-road the hell out of my LR3! :)

...and because a lot of my driving when I'm not on trips, unfortunately, is short (like <5 minutes).

FWIW, the factory manual for my cayenne says to drain and not extract for exactly this reason...

NOTE:  Engine oil should not be removed by suction as particles of dirt may
remain in the oil pan.

Glad you pointed that out. I will look through POSES and find that document so I can print it out for the next time this conversation comes up at the shop.

This is the section from the PDF I have...

17 01 17 ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER CHANGE - AS OF MY 2003
(CAYENNE S TIP, CAYENNE S MAN, CAYENNE TURBO, CAYENNE TURBO
S, CAYENNE S TIO TITAN)

Isn't that what an (oil) filter is for, though?

Suck it Up replaces Go Beyond
 

I presume that was the LR "engineering" view regarding the sealed for life ZF transmission; it probably remains so given their new production is mostly no drain plug - a Suck it Up reflection of the future.:rolleyes:

oil extractor question answered, won't work
 

well guys and gals, I decided to try out the oil extractor yesterday. Got the oil, filter and the pump, had the containers ready, some paper towels and a wrench for the front cover. Inserted the pump tube, turned it on, it was an electric model, and bam. for 2 plus quarts it was amazing, then it started slurping......it turns out that the LR3 oil pan is designed in a way that there is a large sump where the drain plug is. It is not possible to get the extractor tube down as far as needed to get all of the oil out. In the end, I was only able to pull about 2 and 1/2 quarts, maybe 3 from the dipstick tube. I ended up dropping the skid plate and did the traditional oil change. One word of caution, the oil comes flying out once you remove the drain plug. It shot about a foot or more farther than I anticipated, consequently, I had a mess to clean up......other than that, the oil change was relatively painless, the skid plate came off pretty easily, the bolts were a bit tight, I dipped them all in some of the old oil to keep them from rusting. Hope that this helps, If anyone has had different results, please share. One last thing, with the suspension in the off-road mode, ample access is allowed under the vehicle, do use stand, just in case of a suspension failure, I left the door open, that seems to help lock the suspension from unexpected drops. This is a great forum, thanks to all of you that contribute. Phil

2005 LR3 Tonga Green 88k miles

frame jacks definitely required
 

I wondered if a longer suction hose would get you to the bottom of the sump. I assume you have the AJV8 which Land Rover modified to include a deeper sump than on the Jaguars to accommodate the odd occasion when one operates one's 3 at odd angles off road.

The link below is to a pdf showing suitable frame support points for locating frame jacks when working under the vehicle.

The theory about a door being open inhibiting the vehicle dropping assumes the electronic systems within the 3 have perfect reliability and never act in temperamental manner.

My 2005, at best, seems a bit female at times, plus I have no spare hands. I got my warning one day when as I walked away from my 3, there was a hiss and my 3 just dropped to the stops - took maybe two seconds and fortunately the open doors and tailgate door did not hook on anything as it dropped the two inches or so.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...ing_Points.pdf

Yes, your discovery of how far the oil shoots out of the sump is not unique. The oil shoots even further when the sump is full.

Thanks for the post.

When the oil is hot (it should be before draining), it comes out very violently.

I use cardboard and wedge it around the frame to keep it from splashing and collecting inside the undercarriage. Customers do not like when these leave oil spots in the driveway after an oil change, so I do all I can to re-direct and contain the oil.

Again reviving an old thread with a purpose....


I used a Fumoto oil pan drain valve on my Merc E300D and it worked a treat. Seems it would make sense to install on our vehicles, especially considering the cost of a new pan. Nice new feature I see they added is a 'nipple' to attach a drain hose to better direct the oil to where you want it.


https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...&modelId=30958