New LR4 owner: general maintenance questions
#1
New LR4 owner: general maintenance questions
Hi all, thanks in advance for your help. I recently inherited my grandfather's 2010 LR4 (33K miles). I am wondering if any of you have any suggestions about general maintenance to avoid going to the dealership. I was driving a 2002 DII but had to get rid of it, and it seems like the LR4 is a whole other beast.
Also, one more question: I understand LR recommends a 15K mile oil change interval. That seems a bit much for me compared to my DII. My grandfather did not drive on highways, and the car was not driven for the past few months when he was sick. I am about to take this thing on a 1200 mile road trip down to Florida, and was wondering if I should change the oil before I head down there?
Also, one more question: I understand LR recommends a 15K mile oil change interval. That seems a bit much for me compared to my DII. My grandfather did not drive on highways, and the car was not driven for the past few months when he was sick. I am about to take this thing on a 1200 mile road trip down to Florida, and was wondering if I should change the oil before I head down there?
#2
The 5.0 motors seem to extremely sensitive from what I have read and heard around the camp fire to oil change interval. The general consensus is change it every 5k or be prepared for issues.
Everyone agreed that 15k oil change was probably the source to the timing chain issues.
To me it is cheap protection to just change it.
Everyone agreed that 15k oil change was probably the source to the timing chain issues.
To me it is cheap protection to just change it.
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MyRoversNameIsCarl (10-09-2017)
#3
Like all of these intervals there is a lot of debate. Don’t forget it’s 15k miles or every year, so in the case of your vehicle it should have been done every 5k miles anyway as that’s annual
Most of them are done every 15k miles without problem and that’s quite common for many manufacturers these days
However, to answer your question. I agree I’d suggest having the oil done given how long it has been sitting around. If you can find a good Indy I might also suggest other fluids too, so you know where you stand. Coolant, transmission, brake flush. If it has been well and properly maintained that may not be necessary but it’s getting on a bit so not a bad idea
I would have the coolant pump checked - they eventually leak (poor design) and overheating is particularly bad for this engine
Check brakes and rotors (and tires) - it’s a heavy vehicle so eats them quickly. Avoid dealer for those as way overpriced
If battery hasn’t been done for a while I’d do that too as they are sensitive to low battery and they can fail fast
Aside from that mostly preventative stuff we have found it to be v reliable. Our 2010 LR4 has nearly 80k miles and has been incredibly reliable
Good luck!
Most of them are done every 15k miles without problem and that’s quite common for many manufacturers these days
However, to answer your question. I agree I’d suggest having the oil done given how long it has been sitting around. If you can find a good Indy I might also suggest other fluids too, so you know where you stand. Coolant, transmission, brake flush. If it has been well and properly maintained that may not be necessary but it’s getting on a bit so not a bad idea
I would have the coolant pump checked - they eventually leak (poor design) and overheating is particularly bad for this engine
Check brakes and rotors (and tires) - it’s a heavy vehicle so eats them quickly. Avoid dealer for those as way overpriced
If battery hasn’t been done for a while I’d do that too as they are sensitive to low battery and they can fail fast
Aside from that mostly preventative stuff we have found it to be v reliable. Our 2010 LR4 has nearly 80k miles and has been incredibly reliable
Good luck!
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MyRoversNameIsCarl (10-09-2017)
#5
Check the glove compartment: see what work your grandfather has had and when.
Oil change is pretty simple with a MytiVAC. at 33k, I would bet the pads are pretty well gone. Probably has had a new battery, but worth checking. Rest is pretty reliable, especially if the water pump and timing tensioners were already done.
Still, a lot more electronics than the DII.
Oil change is pretty simple with a MytiVAC. at 33k, I would bet the pads are pretty well gone. Probably has had a new battery, but worth checking. Rest is pretty reliable, especially if the water pump and timing tensioners were already done.
Still, a lot more electronics than the DII.
#6
Agree with the above, get a MityVac from Amazon. Easiest oil change you will ever do. Get oil filters from Atlantic British.
I have been changing my oil every 7500 miles using Mobil 1 5W-20. Buy it in 5 quart bottles from Walmart. Technically, the Mobil 1 5W-20 does not meet LR specs. You can buy the far more expensive Castrol oil from a dealer if you find it necessary to buy exact spec oil.
I have been changing my oil every 7500 miles using Mobil 1 5W-20. Buy it in 5 quart bottles from Walmart. Technically, the Mobil 1 5W-20 does not meet LR specs. You can buy the far more expensive Castrol oil from a dealer if you find it necessary to buy exact spec oil.
#8
Like others have said:
-Check all fluids.
-Change the oil. I'm in the 5000-7500 mile camp.
-The brakes have a wear sensor but a visual inspection would be a good idea.
-I would probably change the differential fluids and transfer case fluid before 40k miles just so you know the condition. Judging by the miles on the truck it looks like it took alot of short trips which is hard on fluids.
The cooling issues are leaking water pumps. A good visual inspection and the level of the coolant will tell you if you have an imminent problem. Absolutely stop driving if its overheating.
-Check all fluids.
-Change the oil. I'm in the 5000-7500 mile camp.
-The brakes have a wear sensor but a visual inspection would be a good idea.
-I would probably change the differential fluids and transfer case fluid before 40k miles just so you know the condition. Judging by the miles on the truck it looks like it took alot of short trips which is hard on fluids.
The cooling issues are leaking water pumps. A good visual inspection and the level of the coolant will tell you if you have an imminent problem. Absolutely stop driving if its overheating.
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