LR4 water pump replacement
 

Has anybody done their own replacement of the water pump on the 5.0 engine. Step by step instructions ? With so many of them having to be replaced I find it odd that little info seems to be available for DIYers.

My self installation notes for what it's worth.
 

I replaced mine yesterday, didn't take photos but I can give you a few details.

Drain coolant: I did this by removing the hose under the passenger side of the vehicle which goes to the rear heater, I had already done this in the past by replacing the existing heater hose to eliminate tire rub running 285/65/18's. Not sure if there is an easier way, someone else may know.

Remove from engine: Engine cover, large top radiator hose, top of fan cowl, disconnect fan power.

Remove belt partially and remove belt tensioner completely, if you remove the belt completely it’s not difficult to put on but will require extra time to figure it out.

Remove water pump: unclamp large short hose from water pump on both sides, remove short small water hose, this uses a compression fitting you can push in and pull out the small water line or unclamp the top and remove it after the pump is out. Now take out the 4 torx screws and wiggle pump out.

Note: behind the pump is a black plastic piece (oil cooler tube) that has 2 O-rings on it, this is usually what fails or leaks not the water pump itself so this will be important to replace.

Clean all surfaces and soak up the remaining coolant seen behind the water pump.

Install pump: insert new O-ring onto the rear hose coming from the engine block, install black plastic coupler and then put new O-ring on the black plastic piece. Now wiggle the new pump into place, the 4 torx screws partially installed held in place by the gaskets. When aligning the pump the rear black coupler you can move the coupler a little right and left to align it. Start each screw slightly and check with a flashlight the rear coupler is mated correctly. Torque the torx screws per specs (7ft lbs. I think) and re-connect all hoses, belt pulley and belt.

After done you will need to do the most important part... replace coolant and remove air from the system. My method was to use the smaller hose sitting on top of the radiator by adding a funnel and pouring coolant inside the tube as well as fill reservoir. After you fill what you can the car will need to be at temp in order for the thermostat to open and allow water flow. Using an OBD reader (torque app) I monitored the temp not to rise higher then 96c or 205f. There are air bleeders on the top of the coolant reservoir and also near the battery compartment on the coolant line near the back of the engine. Slowly open these to release hot air, they will eventually only let out liquid which is what you want. After running thru this scenario I let the car sit overnight which worked out since it seems the coolant reservoir went empty meaning it backfilled itself a little. I refilled and ran the car up to temp, purged ari again, then drove around the neighborhood watching my temps, checked my air vents again and everything looked good.

FYI, I am no expert mechanic but I thought this would help.
I did end up buying the water pump from Amazon (BECKARNLEY 131-2464 Water Pump). I would suggest buying another O-ring and oil cooler tube not included with water pump. LR028136 (tube) and LR030593 (O-ring). Likely your water pump is OK and the only problem is the O-ring but I figured why go through the hassle and not replace it.

X2 on the tube. When i replaced my pump the tube was actually what broke, the plastic literally fell apart.

OK I am going to tackle this on my 2010, it seems simple enough. One question, aprox how much coolant was needed to get the system back to full. I imagine you did not drain the entire 11L?

O think I will go with the Pentosin SF

I find just the opposite. Pumps have always been faulty, we just do the tube for good measure. Of the water pumps we have done, about 50% had failed bearings, probably from the crazy tension on the serpentine belt.
There is actually a service bulletin for water pump leakage, and the pump has superseded part numbers like 8 times.

I am going to embark on this next week. Any tips? Aprox. how much coolant will it take to top up after pump replacement?

I bought a new idler pulley and belts. Overkill?

not overkill. you are in there so if you have the money, may as well replace them. when we do these they usually lose about 2 gallons of coolant. so i would say anywhere from 2 gallons of coolant will do ya.

All done. Replaced pump, belts and the idler pulley. Took about 1 gallon SF to top up.

Damn plastic parts. I replaced the cooler tube behind the water pump but when removing the old pump (bad bearings) the small (tiny!) tube on the front of the pump snapped. The pic below is from the new pump.

Can anyone confirm the part that I need to replace this or the right angle plastic connector that plugs in here?

Thanks!
Tim

It looks like you broke #7 ? Bleed pipe connection.