Prepping for lift - HD DC Front Drive Shaft
#11
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 25,707
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I would also suggest you stay with the "L" series instead of going to the Terrafirma, yes it has more travel but the failure rate on them is much higher the the OME's.
Take a look at the QT diff guards for extra protection and if you are able to weld, consider making your own sliders, like these.
If you like them, send me your e-mail address and I will send you the plans.
Post some pictures when you are done building this truck.
Take a look at the QT diff guards for extra protection and if you are able to weld, consider making your own sliders, like these.
If you like them, send me your e-mail address and I will send you the plans.
Post some pictures when you are done building this truck.
#12
Sorry for the long delay between posts - just been busy with life
I have finally gotten around to making some more improvements to the truck, which are still in progress. Here's where things stand:
Crank Seal Leak - FIXED!!!
Lift - In Progress - see pics
I have completed the front lift over the last weekend and hope to get to the rear and potentially the front radius arms this weekend.
Any tips for installing the castor corrected radius arms?
Once the lift is complete, i need to tighten the steering box, relocate the steering damper, get new tires/alignment (and trimming) I will be ready for some wheeling!
Mike, I'll keep you posted on the sliders and will check out the QT diff guards.
More pics coming soon!
I have finally gotten around to making some more improvements to the truck, which are still in progress. Here's where things stand:
Crank Seal Leak - FIXED!!!
Lift - In Progress - see pics
I have completed the front lift over the last weekend and hope to get to the rear and potentially the front radius arms this weekend.
Any tips for installing the castor corrected radius arms?
Once the lift is complete, i need to tighten the steering box, relocate the steering damper, get new tires/alignment (and trimming) I will be ready for some wheeling!
Mike, I'll keep you posted on the sliders and will check out the QT diff guards.
More pics coming soon!
#13
Finally got a chance to work on the truck this evening. Got the rear shocks and springs off pretty quickly. I noticed the bolts for the shock retainer that came with the spacers aren't long enough, so I'll be making a trip to the hardware store tomorrow. I'll post some in progress pics and final pics tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it!
#15
#16
You should start a new thread to get some recommendations and things to consider.
#17
I had another busy weekend with the truck. It is finally starting to take shape!
My lift is now complete, a full 3", but I did not get out the tape measure. I swapped out the rotoflex for a u-joint conversion. The pinion nut was a pain, but my buddy had a metal plat to bolt to the flange, then I used a breaker bar and floor jack to torque the nut off. The new HD Double Cardon rear driveshaft is on and the castor corrected radius arms are in place as well.
I'll get some pics posted in the next few days.
I am experiencing an issue now that I have the radius arms installed. There is a clunking sound that increases in frequency as the vehicle accelerates. I have only driven the car about 100 ft for fear of damage. I suspect now that the axle is properly aligned with the radius arms, the front drive shaft is now practically sitting on top of the sway bar. As the driveshaft turns, I am thinking it is hitting the sway bar. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how I can create more clearance between those two areas?
My lift is now complete, a full 3", but I did not get out the tape measure. I swapped out the rotoflex for a u-joint conversion. The pinion nut was a pain, but my buddy had a metal plat to bolt to the flange, then I used a breaker bar and floor jack to torque the nut off. The new HD Double Cardon rear driveshaft is on and the castor corrected radius arms are in place as well.
I'll get some pics posted in the next few days.
I am experiencing an issue now that I have the radius arms installed. There is a clunking sound that increases in frequency as the vehicle accelerates. I have only driven the car about 100 ft for fear of damage. I suspect now that the axle is properly aligned with the radius arms, the front drive shaft is now practically sitting on top of the sway bar. As the driveshaft turns, I am thinking it is hitting the sway bar. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how I can create more clearance between those two areas?
#18
what part of Nor Cal do you live in. im up in Paradise about 10miles west of Chico and about 100 miles north of Sac. but if you are going to try to do the rubicon you will be able to do it in a stock dico without an issue. you may come out with rock rash and a few dents but should be able to make it through with out braking anything and without lockers. i have done this trail many time for the past years. started with a stock jeep and over time progressively gotten bigger and bigger with it.
Glad to hear about the rubicon. My rig is making some progress, so keep your eyes peeled for pics.
#19
it is probably because you added the castor corrected radius arms and the double cardon. the single U-joint end is now at the incorrect angle. you should have used castor correcting swivel *****. when you use a double cardon the pinion needs to be pointing directly at the t-case output shaft. when you castor correct with radius arms the pinion is not pointed directly at the t-case anymore and can cause the vibration you are experiencing.
advntrjnky
advntrjnky
#20
OK - finally some pics for your viewing pleasure. I am waiting on my sway bar lowering kit. Hopefully dropping the sway 2" will not cause it to grab on the rocks
Getting the castor corrected radius arms were a bit of a pain. It required jacking the axle at one point, then jacking the radius arm by the frame.
Next Up:
Steering Damper relocation along with new HD Tie Rod and Drag Link as well as new tie rod ends.
New tires
Fender trimming
Getting the castor corrected radius arms were a bit of a pain. It required jacking the axle at one point, then jacking the radius arm by the frame.
Next Up:
Steering Damper relocation along with new HD Tie Rod and Drag Link as well as new tie rod ends.
New tires
Fender trimming