I would also suggest you stay with the "L" series instead of going to the Terrafirma, yes it has more travel but the failure rate on them is much higher the the OME's.
Take a look at the QT diff guards for extra protection and if you are able to weld, consider making your own sliders, like these.
If you like them, send me your e-mail address and I will send you the plans.
Post some pictures when you are done building this truck.

 

Sorry for the long delay between posts - just been busy with life

I have finally gotten around to making some more improvements to the truck, which are still in progress. Here's where things stand:

Crank Seal Leak - FIXED!!!
Lift - In Progress - see pics
I have completed the front lift over the last weekend and hope to get to the rear and potentially the front radius arms this weekend.

Any tips for installing the castor corrected radius arms?

Once the lift is complete, i need to tighten the steering box, relocate the steering damper, get new tires/alignment (and trimming) I will be ready for some wheeling!

Mike, I'll keep you posted on the sliders and will check out the QT diff guards.

More pics coming soon!

 

Finally got a chance to work on the truck this evening. Got the rear shocks and springs off pretty quickly. I noticed the bolts for the shock retainer that came with the spacers aren't long enough, so I'll be making a trip to the hardware store tomorrow. I'll post some in progress pics and final pics tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it!

 

Sounds good ! You made out on the deal with the wife.

Fish, the pics are awesome.

 

want to build tuff truck from dicovery 1 have already removed rear of wagon converting into ute am trying to lift it 4" any advice or can you point me in the right direction thanks brad.

 

I would suggest your spend some time researching these forums as a great place to start. I would also strongly recommend contacting the folks at Rovertyme and GBR Utah. Both have a lot of insight into getting your rig lifted and geared properly. You'll need to upgrade your front driveshaft at a minimum, and will likely need to look at some heavy duty tie rods, steering damper relocator etc. You'll also need castor corrected radius arms to deal with the "float" created with the lift.

You should start a new thread to get some recommendations and things to consider.

 

I had another busy weekend with the truck. It is finally starting to take shape!

My lift is now complete, a full 3", but I did not get out the tape measure. I swapped out the rotoflex for a u-joint conversion. The pinion nut was a pain, but my buddy had a metal plat to bolt to the flange, then I used a breaker bar and floor jack to torque the nut off. The new HD Double Cardon rear driveshaft is on and the castor corrected radius arms are in place as well.

I'll get some pics posted in the next few days.

I am experiencing an issue now that I have the radius arms installed. There is a clunking sound that increases in frequency as the vehicle accelerates. I have only driven the car about 100 ft for fear of damage. I suspect now that the axle is properly aligned with the radius arms, the front drive shaft is now practically sitting on top of the sway bar. As the driveshaft turns, I am thinking it is hitting the sway bar. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how I can create more clearance between those two areas?

 

Sorry for the delayed reply. I live in the bay area - East Bay actually.

Glad to hear about the rubicon. My rig is making some progress, so keep your eyes peeled for pics.

 

it is probably because you added the castor corrected radius arms and the double cardon. the single U-joint end is now at the incorrect angle. you should have used castor correcting swivel *****. when you use a double cardon the pinion needs to be pointing directly at the t-case output shaft. when you castor correct with radius arms the pinion is not pointed directly at the t-case anymore and can cause the vibration you are experiencing.

advntrjnky

 

OK - finally some pics for your viewing pleasure. I am waiting on my sway bar lowering kit. Hopefully dropping the sway 2" will not cause it to grab on the rocks

Getting the castor corrected radius arms were a bit of a pain. It required jacking the axle at one point, then jacking the radius arm by the frame.

Next Up:
Steering Damper relocation along with new HD Tie Rod and Drag Link as well as new tie rod ends.
New tires
Fender trimming