new land rover owner
#2
Welcome.
Two issues - the front drive shaft comes from factory with sealed joints on one end. They dry out, spolit, and tear into transmission with little or no warning. Inspect for grease fittings on every joint. Rebuild article in our tech aree - parts under $100. Or buy aftermarket shaft and replace.
Coolant temp gauge shows 50% reading from about 130F to 240F, so you can be overheating and not know it. An Ultra Gauge is a good $70 investment, plugs in OBDII port and shows things in digital fashion.
Two issues - the front drive shaft comes from factory with sealed joints on one end. They dry out, spolit, and tear into transmission with little or no warning. Inspect for grease fittings on every joint. Rebuild article in our tech aree - parts under $100. Or buy aftermarket shaft and replace.
Coolant temp gauge shows 50% reading from about 130F to 240F, so you can be overheating and not know it. An Ultra Gauge is a good $70 investment, plugs in OBDII port and shows things in digital fashion.
#3
[QUOTE=Savannah Buzz;396900]Welcome.
Two issues - the front drive shaft comes from factory with sealed joints on one end. They dry out, spolit, and tear into transmission with little or no warning. Inspect for grease fittings on every joint. Rebuild article in our tech aree - parts under $100. Or buy aftermarket shaft and replace.
Coolant temp gauge shows 50% reading from about 130F to 240F, so you can be overheating and not know it. An Ultra Gauge is a good $70 investment, plugs in OBDII port and shows things in digital fashion.
I replaced front driveline with the new one so it can be greased still have bad vibration at 70 mph and service engine light came on after my first time hammering the throttle to the floor Im getting 10 mpg so Im gonna do plugs and wires having guy check the cat converter and i guess put in map sensor and tps then maybe o2 sensors Im running out of ideas to fix it
QUOTE]
Two issues - the front drive shaft comes from factory with sealed joints on one end. They dry out, spolit, and tear into transmission with little or no warning. Inspect for grease fittings on every joint. Rebuild article in our tech aree - parts under $100. Or buy aftermarket shaft and replace.
Coolant temp gauge shows 50% reading from about 130F to 240F, so you can be overheating and not know it. An Ultra Gauge is a good $70 investment, plugs in OBDII port and shows things in digital fashion.
I replaced front driveline with the new one so it can be greased still have bad vibration at 70 mph and service engine light came on after my first time hammering the throttle to the floor Im getting 10 mpg so Im gonna do plugs and wires having guy check the cat converter and i guess put in map sensor and tps then maybe o2 sensors Im running out of ideas to fix it
QUOTE]
#4
Slow down on the parts throwing contest.
Vibration - check rubber rotoflex coupler at rear drive shaft for any splits.
Swing by a parts store if you don't own a code reader - most stores will read them for free (hoping to sell you more parts).
Get familiar with the truck, download the manuals, read up.
There is no manifold absolute pressure transducer (MAP). Cleaning the MAF sensor with made for MAF cleaner is a start. TPS will show up on a scanner, idle value is around 9%, should move up smoothly as pedal depressed. Plugs and wires first. Drive like grandma instead of Wiley Coyote, you may see 15+ mpg.
Vibration - check rubber rotoflex coupler at rear drive shaft for any splits.
Swing by a parts store if you don't own a code reader - most stores will read them for free (hoping to sell you more parts).
Get familiar with the truck, download the manuals, read up.
There is no manifold absolute pressure transducer (MAP). Cleaning the MAF sensor with made for MAF cleaner is a start. TPS will show up on a scanner, idle value is around 9%, should move up smoothly as pedal depressed. Plugs and wires first. Drive like grandma instead of Wiley Coyote, you may see 15+ mpg.
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