East Coast: WTB: rebuilt or great shape 4.6
#1
East Coast: WTB: rebuilt or great shape 4.6
Looking for some insurance should my mechanic determine that my engine ticking is the result of a slipped liner. Trucks at his shop under his care until I return from my seasonal job out of state. In any case if I do in fact need to swap out the engine I can have him do all the work while Im away. So what do you all got? Im looking for a rebuilt 4.6 engine or an engine that has been well cared for and of which does not leak oil, coolant or have any kind of ticking. Ive heard that P38 4.6 engines were less prone to the typical issues as compared to the late model D2's so Im open to buying a RR engine. Im not interested in any older versions of this engine (4.0 etc) that were fitted to earlier RR and D2 models. I prefer to stick with the 4.6.
If your on the east coast and you have an engine that Im looking for than send me a message and we will talk. If it meets my needs and your to far from Portsmouth NH than I will happily cover the shipping. Thanks.
If your on the east coast and you have an engine that Im looking for than send me a message and we will talk. If it meets my needs and your to far from Portsmouth NH than I will happily cover the shipping. Thanks.
#2
I'm awfully sorry to hear about the issues you are having with your Land Rover Discovery 2 model. Hopefully your mechanic realizes that the ticking is in fact not related to a slipped liner in the 4.6 liter engine of your Discovery. Have you the thought that it may be of relation to the alternator nut that you dropped in the motor? Perhaps your mechanic should be alerted to this mistake of gargantuan proportions before being lead down a dead end road. Best of luck on the repair of this once mighty beast.
#4
I'm awfully sorry to hear about the issues you are having with your Land Rover Discovery 2 model. Hopefully your mechanic realizes that the ticking is in fact not related to a slipped liner in the 4.6 liter engine of your Discovery. Have you the thought that it may be of relation to the alternator nut that you dropped in the motor? Perhaps your mechanic should be alerted to this mistake of gargantuan proportions before being lead down a dead end road. Best of luck on the repair of this once mighty beast.
Read above. Right now NOBODY knows whats up with my engine. Yes an alternator bolt fell down the oil filler neck but I doubt it was small enough to slip down deep into the engine. Certainly did not cause the ticking either because the ticking started a couple months ago, right after doing an engine flush and changing the oil. Last I heard you and your buddies on FB already concluded that my engine was toast so your new advice seems contradictory. Don Trudeau will hopfully be able to solve the mystery of the engine ticking once and for all. True it could be something minor. Originally he thought it sounded more like bad lifters. He said doing the lifters was not to bad a job. But all just speculation. I still want to drive my truck up here to AK so theres no harm in preparing for the worst case scenario. If it turns out to be a minor thing than awesome.
People on the forums seem to disregard the engine ticking, many folks here has claimed to have driven their ticking D2's for years with no issues, but yet the folks I meet in person claim the ticking is a sure sign of a near future complete engine catastrophe.
#5
You and I spoke privately about a replacement engine and I was not joking around. I may not need an engine but right now Im starting to make some money again and while Im up here at the plant Im not paying any bills or paying for gas for my truck so the money I save/earn should be put aside for a worst case scenario. I dont want to be hit unprepared with a memo from my mechanic "Yup your engine has a slipped liner, you need to spend $8,000-$10k to have a machine shop do top hates or replace with a used engine".
IF my engine does need to be replaced and I cannot source another engine than I will ponder a big what if question: What if I have the head gaskets and studs replaced, replace the oil pump, front cover, timing chain, gears, update the entire cooling system and maybe the lifters? Will be engine be able to endure for another year or so of use? How about a 4,700 mile road trip? If I did source another used non rebuilt engine Id still be advised to update the HG's anyways so.....
Last edited by TRIARII; 04-22-2015 at 10:28 PM.
#6
You know there are places that sell new(or like new/completely refurbished) engines, right? Or you could just buy a new truck.
That bit about the alternator nut is funny. Why wouldn't you pop off the rocker cover and retrieve it???
That bit about the alternator nut is funny. Why wouldn't you pop off the rocker cover and retrieve it???
#7
Or use a magnet on a flexible shaft?
The bolt/nut might NOT be your culprit, but its always good practice to retrieve loose metal items from your motor. It could be bouncing around the valves(if it made it past the valve cover baffles) or worse get wedged underneath a valve.
Either way, you will get it figured out. Good luck with the Salmon and the Truck!
The bolt/nut might NOT be your culprit, but its always good practice to retrieve loose metal items from your motor. It could be bouncing around the valves(if it made it past the valve cover baffles) or worse get wedged underneath a valve.
Either way, you will get it figured out. Good luck with the Salmon and the Truck!
#9
I could give up and start all over with another D2 but eventually that truck will also develop a tick, blow a HG or overheat, and I will end up right back at square one. Ive already alot of money into my truck and Ive worked hard to work out some of the common issues. The engine and the rusty frame are the only big things left to work out, afterwards my truck should be solid.
As for removing the rocker cover, Ill leave that to my trusted mechanic friend. Initially I tried to grab the bolt with a pair of needle noise pliers but then the bolt fell in deeper so I inserted a shop vac hose and turned on the vac to see if it could suck out the bolt. Have no idea weather it was sucked out or not. It was very dark out, very cold seeing how it was in the winter time and I was parked in the parking lot of my work trying to replace the alternator...
I dont know how much you guys typically invest in your vehicles but Ive infested alot of money, more than I care to count. Ive gotten far with this vehicle and cannot justify starting over. Here is a link to my build thread.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/bu...i-build-70149/
#10
Or use a magnet on a flexible shaft?
The bolt/nut might NOT be your culprit, but its always good practice to retrieve loose metal items from your motor. It could be bouncing around the valves(if it made it past the valve cover baffles) or worse get wedged underneath a valve.
Either way, you will get it figured out. Good luck with the Salmon and the Truck!
The bolt/nut might NOT be your culprit, but its always good practice to retrieve loose metal items from your motor. It could be bouncing around the valves(if it made it past the valve cover baffles) or worse get wedged underneath a valve.
Either way, you will get it figured out. Good luck with the Salmon and the Truck!
Recently I dropped my keys down a 12 foot deep storm water drain, 4 hours later I acquired a powerful magnet, taped it to a PCV pipe and successfully retrieved my keys from the drain! I still have that magnet and have vowed to always carry a powerful magnet as part of me tool collection and emergency roadside kit! If I had the magnet at the time when I dropped the bolt down the oil filler neck than I would have been able to retrieve it do doubt.
Thanks. Its looking like it will be a very good salmon run this year but my fingers are crossed. Already have a shopping list put together for Rovers North and elsewhere to acquire abunch of parts I want and need.
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