Just bought a 98 rangerover se - Shifts hard
#1
Just bought a 98 rangerover se - Shifts hard
I have had my 2000 disco for a while and when i first got it i had the same issue... the shifter moved a little hard I put some miracle oil on a couple spots and things have been fine since.. Just picked up this range rover for the wife and the only issue i have is that the shifter is hard for her to move.. went through the same process and the linkage mechanism is very different.. What should i do have the wife lift some weights or how can i get the shifter to move a little easier?
Thank you!
Thank you!
#3
The cable might be binding, its happens on range rovers too. Sorry for refering you to the Disco section, your picture threw me . Welcome to the range section. The cable binding is fairly common on these rigs. Here is a quoted section of a website on this issue:
"A stiff gearshift (usually showing up first in shifting from D down to 3, 2 and 1 -- with D, N, R and P still OK) can be caused by the selector cable binding. Removing the cable is about an hour's job, involving removing the center console so you can get at the top end of it. Getting at the bottom end is easy -- one of the benefits of air suspension is you can lift the car for relatively easy access to anything underneath! (But, remember to leave the tailgate open to prevent the suspension from adjusting itself while you are underneath!) The job is described in the shop manual, so study this up before starting. Unfortunately, reports Barry Higginbottom (who kindly contributed this information), the cable is not available as a separate part from the dealer -- you have to buy the whole asembly (FTC4478) including the gear shifter itself, about US$400 worth. So, Barry spent a couple of hours to draw the cable from the outer sheath, clean it up, get rid of the kinks and give it a good lube with silicon spray. He did not use grease on the cable as it appears to be sheathed in PTFE. Care is needed not to lose the 'E' clips holding the cable together. Initial results were encouraging!"
"A stiff gearshift (usually showing up first in shifting from D down to 3, 2 and 1 -- with D, N, R and P still OK) can be caused by the selector cable binding. Removing the cable is about an hour's job, involving removing the center console so you can get at the top end of it. Getting at the bottom end is easy -- one of the benefits of air suspension is you can lift the car for relatively easy access to anything underneath! (But, remember to leave the tailgate open to prevent the suspension from adjusting itself while you are underneath!) The job is described in the shop manual, so study this up before starting. Unfortunately, reports Barry Higginbottom (who kindly contributed this information), the cable is not available as a separate part from the dealer -- you have to buy the whole asembly (FTC4478) including the gear shifter itself, about US$400 worth. So, Barry spent a couple of hours to draw the cable from the outer sheath, clean it up, get rid of the kinks and give it a good lube with silicon spray. He did not use grease on the cable as it appears to be sheathed in PTFE. Care is needed not to lose the 'E' clips holding the cable together. Initial results were encouraging!"
Last edited by LRScott; 05-08-2011 at 09:41 PM.
#4
#5
#6
Whats the source for this?
The cable might be binding, its happens on range rovers too. Sorry for refering you to the Disco section, your picture threw me . Welcome to the range section. The cable binding is fairly common on these rigs. Here is a quoted section of a website on this issue:
"A stiff gearshift (usually showing up first in shifting from D down to 3, 2 and 1 -- with D, N, R and P still OK) can be caused by the selector cable binding. Removing the cable is about an hour's job, involving removing the center console so you can get at the top end of it. Getting at the bottom end is easy -- one of the benefits of air suspension is you can lift the car for relatively easy access to anything underneath! (But, remember to leave the tailgate open to prevent the suspension from adjusting itself while you are underneath!) The job is described in the shop manual, so study this up before starting. Unfortunately, reports Barry Higginbottom (who kindly contributed this information), the cable is not available as a separate part from the dealer -- you have to buy the whole asembly (FTC4478) including the gear shifter itself, about US$400 worth. So, Barry spent a couple of hours to draw the cable from the outer sheath, clean it up, get rid of the kinks and give it a good lube with silicon spray. He did not use grease on the cable as it appears to be sheathed in PTFE. Care is needed not to lose the 'E' clips holding the cable together. Initial results were encouraging!"
"A stiff gearshift (usually showing up first in shifting from D down to 3, 2 and 1 -- with D, N, R and P still OK) can be caused by the selector cable binding. Removing the cable is about an hour's job, involving removing the center console so you can get at the top end of it. Getting at the bottom end is easy -- one of the benefits of air suspension is you can lift the car for relatively easy access to anything underneath! (But, remember to leave the tailgate open to prevent the suspension from adjusting itself while you are underneath!) The job is described in the shop manual, so study this up before starting. Unfortunately, reports Barry Higginbottom (who kindly contributed this information), the cable is not available as a separate part from the dealer -- you have to buy the whole asembly (FTC4478) including the gear shifter itself, about US$400 worth. So, Barry spent a couple of hours to draw the cable from the outer sheath, clean it up, get rid of the kinks and give it a good lube with silicon spray. He did not use grease on the cable as it appears to be sheathed in PTFE. Care is needed not to lose the 'E' clips holding the cable together. Initial results were encouraging!"
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