" So $62,500 should be my max? They have a $600 dealer fee and I told them $62,000 and the dealer fee would have to go."

Yes, if it was my deal the final purchase price would be $62,500.00 NET. So if THEY can't figure the basic math to make this work > $61,900.00 RR plus $600 B$ fee EQUALS: $62,500.00 There is no reason this deal can't get done on their end. Personally, at this stage I would hardline my price and give them 5 minutes to respond. And the only answer is "YES!" or I would walk.

Time for them to or get off the pot!

 

Well you called it. "As I suspected there is no more movement on our side, however I don't know if this is important to you, but the vehicle has a K900 radar detector integrated into the vehicle. The detector is about $2000.00 and the labor wasn't' cheap either. So there may be your justification for paying the price. Also we had the vehicle inspected by a company call Truframe and they cannot find a scintilla of damage on the vehicle thus re-enforcing that the car was scraped not wrecked."

He means K40 which actually is some value to me (I speed a lot and have 2 speeding tickets ) because it appears to be a 360 one installed but I won't let him know that. I'll let him know the detector is of no value to me and to let me know if things change. If you feel I should say something else let me know.

 

So I won our $1 TrueFrame bet, cool how do I collect. This is such a predictable game Dealers play. Re: the K40(RL360i), yes very good equipment but it does little to add value to the truck. The only thing at this point that would get me to pay $63,900 would be if they offered to leave an envelope filled with $1500 cash in the glove box upon delivery.
You asked if there was anything else to tell them and I say no. Actually you need to stop communicating with them. Every time you talk/text them they know you are not ready to walk. And they just keep trying to "sell" you by giving you more info about the cars value (like the K40, etc). You weaken your position.

Like in my last post, I would 100% have my firm and final number and present it one last time. Done over the phone with a 5 minute deadline(waiting on hold). If they say no, so be it. And now to improve my position...Then over the next 2 days I would have 4 or 5 friends call the dealer a few times each with a ton of questions. You need the dealer to think this car is in play and chew up some of their time. On the last call have them make offers $2K-$3K LESS then your final offer (no crazy LOWballs). They will be told no, but the dealer will get an idea of what the market "wants" to pay. I would then make one last call to the Used-Car Sales Manager and ask them to accept my original offer. The answer yes or no needs to be given while I wait on the phone. You'll be surprised how many times this works.

Just for giggles I got the process started for you. So after less than a 20 minute call I offered a low $57,500.00 with some "oh, my daughter would love this...B$". They came back real quick with the same $64,000.00 you got (which is $1988 less than what the retail price is on the website now). IMHO, if you want this truck I know you can get this done. And when they accept your price they still will NOT be upside down on this deal. You are very close.

 

Just a headsup you might want to ask what the tread depth is on these tires. Ok for Florida/summer, but based on the wear indicators these tires are not going to get you through a Chicago winter. Oh, and tell them to fix the pending flat tire from what looks like a nail.
They must have missed that in the 100 point inspection.

 

You should go to the casino with your betting odds. I told them while the Trueframe report is nice the possible electrical and mechanical issues in the future from the previous damage is what I'm worried about. I then said I'm looking at a few more vehicles and I'm in no rush to buy, so just let me know if/when the price drops. He replied "Just to let you know the vehicle was never ever in an accident.". My reply "I understand, but there was damage and no ones know to what extent." If he emails me again I'm just going to ignore him.

There is another one I'm looking at which would require me to give up the red interior and go with the second choice of tan but it also has high miles, I'll keep that one on the back burner.

Which tire is flat so I can keep that in mind for the future? I'd replace those anyway with the 22" OEM wheel option, don't really like the style of the ones currently on the car.

 

Absolutely ridiculous, I sent those pictures off to the pre owned manager. And thanks for doing that, I have a feeling they have had a few of those calls but are waiting for the one buyer who is willing to pay more.

Our latest convo:

Me: The radar detector is really of no value to me. While the Trueframe report is nice the possible electrical/mechanical issues in the future from the previous damage are what I'm more worried about.

 

Maybe I can help a bit here.

I purchased a MB E350 4matic from a friends dealership. The car was absolutely in perfect condition, low mileage etc..... It did however have a accident on the CarFax. The only think I could find was the hood gap on BOTH sides was 1/4 in higher than normal. Asthetically no difference unless another E was beside it. Was in warranty still etc..

We reached a deal with the understanding that when (and it was when) I traded it back to him, he wouldn't ding it for the CarFax report. He would deal straight on it, as I was buying it along those lines.

12 months late I deployed to AFG. The car was put on his lot for sale. As it was the nicest one they have had since then. It still hasn't sold 1yr later for some unknown reason. I traded it on my now perfect condition RR. But, on trade in he DINGED it to hell for the CarFax. He would not budge on the price given to me. Since it was my fault on originally buying it that way, I am the one to blame, not him. I will just make sure, NO car I ever purchase will have anything other than a stellar CarFax again. I did buy the RRSSC at wholesale pricing.

So my honest assessment of your situation is: Unless they can CLEAR the Carfax and show that it is cleared by having it run by a dealer in Chicago, I wouldn't even begin to touch this car.

1. No matter who you try and sell this too, even to the point of showing then the bumper cover had to be replaced, they will not bite on any price near retail. It will become very difficult to sell. ie....thats why this dealer is having a hard time

2. If you went to trade on it, the dealer is likely to take low wholesale numbers, then drop it even more so they can make the profit. You will take a bath with it.

3. Whenever anything goes wrong, it will always creep into your mind that maybe the accident repair created this issue. If you didnt buy this one, then it wouldn't have gone wrong.

4. There IS always another around, I thought the Aston Martin market was small, but I found the identical car almost 4 months later and bought it. (automatic vs manual; got the manual)


I hope this gives some insight to the whole deal. I would have always thought, if you bought one at a great deal with only a ding on it, things would turn out just fine when you go to sell. I found out differently. Dealers will lie to no end to minimize or cosmetically fix a car just to get it sold. A Radar detector has NO VALUE whatsoever, and extra options give very little value to the cars once they are first bought. Try telling a dealer you want more money for your car because it has a built in radar and extra nice options. They will low ball you to no end. I really despise them.

 

Well it sold this morning, win some lose some. Back to the drawing board.

 

Mod please delete.