My '97 D1 has 137,000 on the odometer, and I'm 99% sure that the fuel pump finally died. Started sputtering under load, on the uphill climb into my neighborhood. The next day, some serious backfiring, along with the sputtering. Made it home and parked it. Won't start back up. Just cranks.

With the ignition in the 'on' position (engine not running), I have 1 psi at the fuel rail. When I crank the engine for a couple of seconds, I get 2 psi. Okay, no big deal, probably the fuel pump. I drill the heads off the screws holding the access hatch on, vacuum out all the sand (the previous owner MUST have taken this thing on a river crossing at some point, but that's a story for another time). Fuel filter is due for replacement, but isn't obstructed. It's not hindering flow from the pump. It's on my shopping list with Atlantic British.

So I get access to the pump itself (finally), and now I can get around to checking the voltage at the pump with the engine cranking for a few seconds; which leads me to my question.

The top of my pump assembly looks like what I've seen photos of online, but I've got two electrical connectors. I'll attach a photo. I'm assuming that one is for powering the pump, and the other is for fuel level (fuel gauge)? I've read that I should check the white/purple wire and the black ground wire on the connector that sits closest to my rear bumper.

Am I overthinking this, and making a mountain out of a mole-hill?

Thanks in advance, and thanks (after the fact) for all the help I've gotten from lurking here for a few months!

...now let's see if I can successfully attach this pic. It's been 15 years since I've posted a photo on a message board!

 

one is the send and one is power. if you unplug the send with the key on it will go to empty. The other has power but only for a few seconds, if it doesn't get a response from the pump the power shut down. you really need two people one with a test light and one at the key. at least that's what I found out on my GEMs RR. I'm assume the gems in a DI works the same. it must be nice to not have to drop that tank everytime.

 

You can get the fuel filter locally a lot cheaper. Here's the price at Amazon. Some local places that carry Wix are O'Reilly and NAPA (though at NAPA it's rebranded as NAPA.

If it's just the pump, you can replace that also with a locally sourced part. However, it looks like there's a good chance you're going to need a complete assembly and new hose ends. So be prepared for them to break. Shop around, they aren't cheap. Rovahfarm is a good bet, $109 vs $249 at AB.
Soak with solvent for a day or so first. Best rust dissolver is 50/50 ATF/Acetone.
Use a flare nut wrench on the nuts.

 

Great info. Thanks for the responses guys!

AntiChrist, I've never heard of this 50/50 solution. For the rusted nuts on the inlet and outlet lines at the pump, I'm guessing I'd just liberally brush that solution on with a crappy brush? And same thing for the pump retaining ring?

And thanks for the wiring diagram with pin-out locations!

Oh, and as far as new hose ends at the pump...i spoke with Trevor at RovahFarm, and he said he doesn't have those. I'm guessing that I'd I DO find them somewhere, it would be a matter of cutting the old compression end off of the existing line(s), and install my new ones? Surely I don't need to be replacing my ENTIRE fuel lines?

 

Hollywood, if that pic is of your pump(and not just pulled from the interwebs)then you have an AEL pump. This means those are push on fittings at the pump. It also means the pump assembly is more $$$ than non-AEL.
Plan on replacing the pump retaining ring and the pump seal.

 

Hey fish, yep, unfortunately that rusted mess is MY pump. And unfortunately for my wallet, my Disco has AEL. Since I'm 100% sure that I won't be able to reuse the rusted mess of parts, I've got the retaining ring and a new rubber pump seal in my shopping cart at Rovahfarm. As far as push-on lines, I'm still worried that those rusted nuts are going to crumble as I try to break them loose. And the fittings on the end of the fuel lines themselves look like they'll crumble if I even so much as look at them wrong.

 

I used these on mine.
Cut off the plastice push on fitting saving as much of the rubber line as possible. Push the b-a-r-b-e-d end jnto the rubber hose. The compression end fits right over the metal nipple on top of the pump housing.

 

Oh awesome! Thanks for that link!! How are those holding up for you so far? Any problems?

 

Holding up great!

 

Good to hear! I ordered those fittings from Amazon. I think you just saved me a TON of time!! Thanks again for that!!