Hi All, I apologize if other posts addressed one or more of these issues, but here it goes:

1) My truck cuts out sometimes on a rolling stop. If I take my foot off of the gas and it rolls it will more than likely cut out but will always start right back up. It will also cut out while I am at a stop light sometimes but will always start right back up.

2) My truck makes a really back jerk/clunking noise at every up and down automatic gear shift. It also makes the same noise when I put the truck in reverse. It seems to be less noticeable when I drive more aggressively/faster but when I am taking my time I can really hear it well. One mechanic told me my it might be a cable or something that needs tightening up or might need a rear end repair shop.

3) This is probably a generic issue but the truck makes horrible cracking noises in the front end tires when I make turns. I was told that all vehicle will do that if you turn sharp enough but it does it even with the least amount of turn degree..

4) My A/C blower speed doesn't work on the 3rd and 4th notches. I have to put it between 3 and 4 and then it might kick in. Do I need a whole new switch or panel?

5) When I drive on the highway with the windows rolled up it still sounds like my windows are down! The truck doesn't sound air sealed and I can hear and feel air coming in from somewhere around my feet/foot pedals. Any ideas?

6) I had the top half of my engine rebuilt (blown head gasket) so all of the seals, etc., were replaced and it cured the oil leaking on the ground and on the starter but I still seem to be losing/adding oil but don't see any oil on the ground or on the engine anymore since the rebuild. Any ideas?

7) What do I need to check or replace to get my seats to heat up? It seems like the passenger side seat heats intermittently but the driver side one doesn't at all..

Thanks guys!

 

Transmission direct drive clutch, LR's term for torque converter lockup clutch may not be disengaging properly causing your stall issues and could also result in some harsh shifting. There are a couple of valves in the trans that may be sticking or partially clogged not allowing it to disengage enough until pressure drops when it stalls. You may want to look at changing the transmission fluid and filter to see if that helps.
......

 

Might also want to make sure that your drive shaft is greased up properly. I had a clunk in my old land cruiser until I got under there with a grease gun and filled the drive shaft with grease via the nipple(s). Likely the above issue (trans needing flush, filter clean, etc but the drive shafts are often overlooked). Also found that the ride was much smoother when they are filled up with grease properly (while there do the U joints, too).

On the blower - might need to have the contacts cleaned. An old trick with vintage radios when the volume crackles when you increase or decrease it is to turn it on and move the switches rapidly back and forth a few times to try to "clean" the contacts. Might help. Might not. Easier to try than going into the panel for sure. You need to have the blower on, though, and running, so you're getting current to the connectors.

What shape are your door seals in? Close the windows and doors and spray water around the outside - does it leak through? New seals. I read that the Disco II seals around the doors are better than the Disco 1 seals.

On losing oil - what do your oil cooler lines look like? Could be leaking there and then burning off slightly. Also are you blowing smoke? What happens if you go down the road at full pedal and then suddenly let off - do you get a cloud of smoke? If so you're losing oil past the rings.

 

Thanks! I will have to check into that. I have a mechanic who says that my differentials are probably worn out and my shift linkage might be worn out as well which might be causing the harsh shifting when putting it in reverse.

Also meant to add that when I put it in reverse sometimes it doesn't do anything. I have to put it back into drive and then put it back into reverse before it will "catch".. that's an intermittent problem too..

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks Mike! Those are great suggestions! I would definitely like to try that grease thing.

On the blower, I had a mechanic tell me I need a new blower motor switch unless I have to buy the whole control panel. Not sure I want to go through that. Like you said I have to turn it on and move it back and forth for it to stay on.

And as far as the door seals are concerned, I can tell you firsthand that they are OK because I take my truck through car washes all the time LOL. I would know for sure as hard as that water sprays on the truck from all angles with me in there a sitting duck.. It might sound strange but I think the air is coming from the floor boards under the dash somehow because I feel it on the front of my feet..

No my truck doesn't smoke but I was told once by a Jiffy Lube tech that I was leaking around the oil pan now that I think about it..

 

Do I have an Idle air control valve on my vehicle and could that be why it cuts out in traffic?

 

By the way that's a really nice rundown of the all too common symptoms with every Disco.

Yes you do have an IAC. The idle air control solenoid from time to time needs it's seat and pintle cleaned of carbon buildup, that effects the amount of air entering the idle circuit ports in the throttle body, causes the motor to run overly rich and quit. You may only need the PCV nub cleaned of baked oil, that causes a vacuum low condition which also effects idle. This by the way is normal maintenance with a GEMS motor, like changing the air filter and engine oil.

The clunking when driving - "back jerking" is the idle air again. It doesn't cut out until around 40 mph and it will do this if it's out of spec, wether too high or too low. There's a certain amount of slop in the driveline gear when worn in and your visiting it.

Seat heaters are either connection (intermittent) or the elements are broken (not working). They're available through several online sources, they're replaceable.

Clean the PCV nub otherwise you'll be burning oil by forcing the oil laden crank case air back into the combustion process.

Fan control position 3 and 4 not working is lack of contact between the switch and the copper bars that carry the voltage to the fan. They both pit, can be sanded smooth and it will work again. It's a pain to get to it since you have to basically remove the air temp control assembly. It's worth the trouble.

Clunking when turning is a visit to a front end shop if it's easily doing it all the time. Something is needing replacement or adjustment, it's too loose or binding. Not a big deal but not something to let get worse either.

Wind noise - check the window channel seal that surrounds the window (the fuzzy one). It's probably very old and dry. DII window seals work with some trimming.

This is all stuff I did to mine many years ago, may remember more if you poke me more about it.

 

Thanks ihscouts! That is an extremely detailed description of the issues.. I wish I were as mechanically inclined as you all are on this forum! I will keep you posted on how my repairs turn out...

 

Few bucks gonna be shelled out there......which is why most of us fools do our own work.

 

Ha Ha.. Indeed..