04 dii xyz / m+s / p0705
#1
11-16-2014, 02:32 PM
04 dii xyz / m+s / p0705
After a lot of research on this seemingly common issue on these and other forums, I'll seek the collective wisdom.
2004 Discovery II, recently had a very intermittent episode of M+S lights flashing. Remedied then by shutting engine off and restarting, all fine. Now happening frequently, seems that it may be triggered by engaging reverse. After turning engine off and restarting and going directly to drive I'm usually fine. Engine code P0705 is triggered repeatedly.
Tested my battery, and voltage seems fine. Voltage also looks normal when running under no load and under load. My research suggests now I'm likely looking at replacing the XYZ switch. Other suggestions welcomed.
If replacing the XYZ, does anyone have a suggestion for best location / price? Seems to be about $195 at the best I can find online for a used one, and shocked me to find 600 - 700 new. Also, at Roverland Parts they show a different part for 99 - 02 and 03 - 04 for the XYZ switch. Does anyone know if a part from, for example, a 2002 model could be used on my 2004? Most other sites don't seem to differentiate and show the part as 99 - 04. I may be able to get the part from a wrecked 2002 relatively inexpensively, but I obviously don't want to go take it off and purchase it if it isn't compatible.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
2004 Discovery II, recently had a very intermittent episode of M+S lights flashing. Remedied then by shutting engine off and restarting, all fine. Now happening frequently, seems that it may be triggered by engaging reverse. After turning engine off and restarting and going directly to drive I'm usually fine. Engine code P0705 is triggered repeatedly.
Tested my battery, and voltage seems fine. Voltage also looks normal when running under no load and under load. My research suggests now I'm likely looking at replacing the XYZ switch. Other suggestions welcomed.
If replacing the XYZ, does anyone have a suggestion for best location / price? Seems to be about $195 at the best I can find online for a used one, and shocked me to find 600 - 700 new. Also, at Roverland Parts they show a different part for 99 - 02 and 03 - 04 for the XYZ switch. Does anyone know if a part from, for example, a 2002 model could be used on my 2004? Most other sites don't seem to differentiate and show the part as 99 - 04. I may be able to get the part from a wrecked 2002 relatively inexpensively, but I obviously don't want to go take it off and purchase it if it isn't compatible.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
#2
11-16-2014, 04:28 PM
#3
11-17-2014, 10:05 AM
TReK
#6
11-17-2014, 10:20 PM
I am able to get a used xyz locally for 75. I will probably grab that one just due to proximity. It was on a 2002 and apparently is in working order. Thanks for the offer Paul. If that falls through I will PM you. I think I will probably try the rebuild that I've found links to on the forums with the original that I remove as backup It doesn't look to be a terribly complex project.
Running voltage was around 14.1 if I recall from a few days ago. Would have to recheck to be sure.
Interesting to see several of these new posts with similar issue over the past day. Does anyone have any experience with adjustment of the switch on install? The RAVE manual shows some special tool for adjustment, but I can't find any posts suggesting that it is required.
Running voltage was around 14.1 if I recall from a few days ago. Would have to recheck to be sure.
Interesting to see several of these new posts with similar issue over the past day. Does anyone have any experience with adjustment of the switch on install? The RAVE manual shows some special tool for adjustment, but I can't find any posts suggesting that it is required.
#7
11-18-2014, 08:55 AM
Here are a few tips from my experience changing the XYZ twice and also pulling one from a boneyard truck.
If you are going to be doing this on your back crawl under from the passenger side. The job is easier if you're oriented that way. You'll need a 10mm for the bolts that mount the switch to the tranny. A ratcheting box wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket works well. I recall there is not enough clearance to fit a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. You'll also need a 13mm for the nut holding the lever to the selector shaft.
It's common for the lever to be difficult to remove from the shaft due to corrosion and dirt. After you remove the nut you may want to clean up the flats on the shaft with some sandpaper before trying to remove the lever. You'll probably need a flat screwdriver or similar tool to gently pry the lever off the shaft. I also like to disconnect the shift cable from its bracket and move it up and out of the way once the lever is off the shaft.
The next trick, as with the O2 sensors and the CKPS, is to get the switch unplugged from the harness. I've found it easier to unbolt and remove the switch first and then slip the harness connector off its mounting clip to better access and disconnect the plug. Take a look at the plug on your replacement switch to see how the release lever is positioned.
After all that work to remove the old switch installation of the new switch is relatively easy. You asked about the adjustment. You don't need the special tool. Plug in the replacement switch and mount it with the 10mm bolts, leaving them slightly loose for now. Put the shift cable back in its bracket if you removed it and reinstall the lever on the shaft. CAUTION - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE 13mm NUT. It's all too easy to strip the threads on the shaft. Ask me how I know.
Once everything is back in place with the 10mm bolts still loose you can rotate the switch a couple of degrees right and left. Start by trying to line up the alignment hole shown in the RAVE illustrations so that it is perpendicular to the flats on the shaft. As it says in RAVE the transmission should be in Neutral for this step. You can see in RAVE illustration M44 1061 that the tool is designed to accomplish that. Once it's in position tighten down the 10mm bolts and test the system inside the truck to confirm the PRND321 indicators on the dashboard display and next to the shift lever light up correctly as the shifter is moved through its range. It will save a little time if you can have someone else sitting in the truck to test this so that if further adjustment is needed you can do it without having to crawl back and forth from under the truck. If the indicators do not display correctly just loosen the 10mm bolts and rotate the shaft a little, one way or the other, until the indicators display correctly. That's all there is to it.
BTW, I agree with your plan to try to refurb the old switch. I carry a spare XYZ and a spare brake light switch that I got for a few bucks from the boneyard truck to try to prevent being stranded. I haven't invested in a spare CKPS. Yet.
If you are going to be doing this on your back crawl under from the passenger side. The job is easier if you're oriented that way. You'll need a 10mm for the bolts that mount the switch to the tranny. A ratcheting box wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket works well. I recall there is not enough clearance to fit a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. You'll also need a 13mm for the nut holding the lever to the selector shaft.
It's common for the lever to be difficult to remove from the shaft due to corrosion and dirt. After you remove the nut you may want to clean up the flats on the shaft with some sandpaper before trying to remove the lever. You'll probably need a flat screwdriver or similar tool to gently pry the lever off the shaft. I also like to disconnect the shift cable from its bracket and move it up and out of the way once the lever is off the shaft.
The next trick, as with the O2 sensors and the CKPS, is to get the switch unplugged from the harness. I've found it easier to unbolt and remove the switch first and then slip the harness connector off its mounting clip to better access and disconnect the plug. Take a look at the plug on your replacement switch to see how the release lever is positioned.
After all that work to remove the old switch installation of the new switch is relatively easy. You asked about the adjustment. You don't need the special tool. Plug in the replacement switch and mount it with the 10mm bolts, leaving them slightly loose for now. Put the shift cable back in its bracket if you removed it and reinstall the lever on the shaft. CAUTION - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE 13mm NUT. It's all too easy to strip the threads on the shaft. Ask me how I know.
Once everything is back in place with the 10mm bolts still loose you can rotate the switch a couple of degrees right and left. Start by trying to line up the alignment hole shown in the RAVE illustrations so that it is perpendicular to the flats on the shaft. As it says in RAVE the transmission should be in Neutral for this step. You can see in RAVE illustration M44 1061 that the tool is designed to accomplish that. Once it's in position tighten down the 10mm bolts and test the system inside the truck to confirm the PRND321 indicators on the dashboard display and next to the shift lever light up correctly as the shifter is moved through its range. It will save a little time if you can have someone else sitting in the truck to test this so that if further adjustment is needed you can do it without having to crawl back and forth from under the truck. If the indicators do not display correctly just loosen the 10mm bolts and rotate the shaft a little, one way or the other, until the indicators display correctly. That's all there is to it.
BTW, I agree with your plan to try to refurb the old switch. I carry a spare XYZ and a spare brake light switch that I got for a few bucks from the boneyard truck to try to prevent being stranded. I haven't invested in a spare CKPS. Yet.
Last edited by mln01; 11-24-2014 at 01:08 PM.
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#8
11-18-2014, 08:32 PM
Here are a few tips from my experience changing the XYZ twice and also pulling one from a boneyard truck.
If you are going to be doing this on your back crawl under from the passenger side. The job is easier if you're oriented that way. You'll need a 10mm for the bolts that mount the switch to the tranny. A ratcheting box wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket works well. I recall there is not enough clearance to fit a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. You'll also need a 13mm for the nut holding the lever to the selector shaft.
It's common for the lever to be difficult to remove from the shaft due to corrosion and dirt. After you remove the nut you may want to clean up the flats on the shaft with some sandpaper before trying to remove the lever. You'll probably need a flat screwdriver or similar tool to gently pry the lever off the shaft. I also like to disconnect the shift cable from its bracket and move it up and out of the way once the lever is off the shaft.
The next trick, as with the O2 sensors and the CKPS, is to get the switch unplugged from the harness. I've found it easier to unbolt and remove the switch first and then slip the harness connector off its mounting clip to better access and disconnect the plug. Take a look at the plug on your replacement switch to see how the release lever is positioned.
After all that work to remove the old switch installation of the new switch is relatively easy. You asked about the adjustment. You don't need the special tool. Plug in the replacement switch and mount it with the 10mm bolts, leaving them slightly loose for now. Put the shift cable back in its bracket if you removed it and reinstall the lever on the shaft. CAUTION - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE 13mm NUT. It's all too easy to strip the threads on the shaft. Ask me how I know.
Once everything is back in place with the 10mm bolts still loose you can rotate the switch a couple of degrees right and left. Start by trying to line up the alignment hole shown in the RAVE illustrations so that it is perpendicular to the flats on the shaft. You can see in RAVE illustration M44 1061 that the tool is designed to accomplish that. Once it's in position tighten down the 10mm bolts and test the system inside the truck to confirm the PRND321 indicators on the dashboard display and next to the shift lever light up correctly as the shifter is moved through its range. It will save a little time if you can have someone else sitting in the truck to test this so that if further adjustment is needed you can do it without having to crawl back and forth from under the truck. If the indicators do not display correctly just loosen the 10mm bolts and rotate the shaft a little, one way or the other, until the indicators display correctly. That's all there is to it.
BTW, I agree with your plan to try to refurb the old switch. I carry a spare XYZ and a spare brake light switch that I got for a few bucks from the boneyard truck to try to prevent being stranded. I haven't invested in a spare CKPS. Yet.
If you are going to be doing this on your back crawl under from the passenger side. The job is easier if you're oriented that way. You'll need a 10mm for the bolts that mount the switch to the tranny. A ratcheting box wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket works well. I recall there is not enough clearance to fit a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. You'll also need a 13mm for the nut holding the lever to the selector shaft.
It's common for the lever to be difficult to remove from the shaft due to corrosion and dirt. After you remove the nut you may want to clean up the flats on the shaft with some sandpaper before trying to remove the lever. You'll probably need a flat screwdriver or similar tool to gently pry the lever off the shaft. I also like to disconnect the shift cable from its bracket and move it up and out of the way once the lever is off the shaft.
The next trick, as with the O2 sensors and the CKPS, is to get the switch unplugged from the harness. I've found it easier to unbolt and remove the switch first and then slip the harness connector off its mounting clip to better access and disconnect the plug. Take a look at the plug on your replacement switch to see how the release lever is positioned.
After all that work to remove the old switch installation of the new switch is relatively easy. You asked about the adjustment. You don't need the special tool. Plug in the replacement switch and mount it with the 10mm bolts, leaving them slightly loose for now. Put the shift cable back in its bracket if you removed it and reinstall the lever on the shaft. CAUTION - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE 13mm NUT. It's all too easy to strip the threads on the shaft. Ask me how I know.
Once everything is back in place with the 10mm bolts still loose you can rotate the switch a couple of degrees right and left. Start by trying to line up the alignment hole shown in the RAVE illustrations so that it is perpendicular to the flats on the shaft. You can see in RAVE illustration M44 1061 that the tool is designed to accomplish that. Once it's in position tighten down the 10mm bolts and test the system inside the truck to confirm the PRND321 indicators on the dashboard display and next to the shift lever light up correctly as the shifter is moved through its range. It will save a little time if you can have someone else sitting in the truck to test this so that if further adjustment is needed you can do it without having to crawl back and forth from under the truck. If the indicators do not display correctly just loosen the 10mm bolts and rotate the shaft a little, one way or the other, until the indicators display correctly. That's all there is to it.
BTW, I agree with your plan to try to refurb the old switch. I carry a spare XYZ and a spare brake light switch that I got for a few bucks from the boneyard truck to try to prevent being stranded. I haven't invested in a spare CKPS. Yet.
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06-02-2015, 02:53 PM
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06-02-2015, 05:42 PM