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Head gasket leak, after having heads done. Help?

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2015, 11:44 PM
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Default Head gasket leak, after having heads done. Help?

Where do i begin? The rover only over heated on me once and that was after the radiator clogged.

I knew the rover was leaking coolant, i just couldnt tell from where it was coming from. I did a pressure test and saw that it was coming out the back of the block so i started the HG swap and come to find out the lower intake manifold was loose on the right side, well i had already loosened the head bolts so i removed them and had them checked and decked.
Well i scraped one and it was welded and fixed.



So i re assemble everything and we have a head gasket leak with no pressure, well surely i fudged up somewhere, right?

With help from Dusty1 and a friend we gave it another go around and this time we checked the head/block/lower intake with a straight edge and everything looked fine. Dusty found an issue with one head stud which we fixed but that was about it apart from finding more grime on the block.

I re assembled everything to the point of being able to pressure test and we still have a leak.

I will start to tear it down tomorrow and put the leaking head on the drivers side and put the non leaking head in the passenger side. doing this i can see if its something with the heads or the block.

Does anyone know if running the arp 124-4003 kit on a modern engine could cause issues? or is it possible that my block and heads warped perfectly so that they wouldnt leak and now that the heads are straight they leak?

any other suggestions?

since the bleed down wasnt too bad i wonder if blue devil could fix this since the leak is from the water jacket out the block and not into the piston.
 
  #2  
Old 03-30-2015, 05:48 AM
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I know its a bit of a "silly" question but did you use a new gasket the second time around?

Some gaskets don't like being re-used.
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:04 AM
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Yes he used new gasket
the stud that was in question actually had the nut threaded too far, as in the nut was cutting new threads.......
that was only 1 stud, possibly an issue with a few, but 1 doesn't seem enough to let it leak with out pressure.
stud talk...http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72718


infact for it to leak without pressure, i would really think that we would have noticed something on the surfaces? we did the straight edge with a flashlight on both surfaces.....no sign of issue...no light
 

Last edited by dusty1; 03-30-2015 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dusty1
Yes he used new gasket
I know, but i had to ask. . Check your torque specs. And your torque wrench.
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:41 AM
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torque wrenches were checked and checked against one another. torque sequence, interval, and weight all by the book
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:46 AM
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The only thing I can think of would either be the gasket or the surfaces isn't as flat as you think it should be. either way, you gotta tear it down again.
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dgi 07
The only thing I can think of would either be the gasket or the surfaces isn't as flat as you think it should be. either way, you gotta tear it down again.
got any ideas on a better way to check surfaces for flatness......
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:00 AM
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also, ls1...., not trying to take over your thread here. i am just very interested in figuring this out...
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:00 AM
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is the head that is leaking the one that was skimmed? or is that the other? just trying to discount the "stud too long" theory.
 
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:07 AM
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both were machined, but the one that is not leaking was the one that was welded and machined.

the torque wrenches are a snapon and a new digital eastwood, the eastwood is calibrate3d to +/- 2lbs and the snap on was checked with it and vice versa.

i know the heads were off the block inthe freezing cold we had a few weeks ago but there was coolant in the system.
 


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