found a 2000 discovery with 203k miles on it, looks pretty clean, shop whos selling said the motor has been rebuilt with a mild cam, and every seal has been replaced. transmission has been rebuilt and new torque converter. all new ball joints up front and rebuilt front and rear axles. new radiator and water pump, sounds and looks like lots of work has been done. test drove it and it drives really well. brakes felt a little week so not sure if thats normal for these cars? guy said he never touched the brakes on it. looks like it could use a rotor turn and new brake pads. how complicated is the brake bleeding process on these cars? it does suffer the 3 amigo issue. he has replaced the few parts on the brake system to possibly fix the problem but it still comes on some times. he states that he has chased the issue to the plug that goes into the side of the abs mudaul. possible bent pins or something. i don't mind that the abs doesn't work so not worried about fixing it, but is there a way to by pass this and possibly fix the 3 amigo lights on the dash? is there actually a mild cam made for these cars that can produce a little more power, and create a little bit ruff of an idle? paint and interior are probe a 5 out of ten, but i do like that the body is dent free. just the clear coat is fading away. i was thinking of maybe a maco paint job and then go to a junk yard for cleaner front seats. just wondering what year discovery seats are interchangeable with the 2000 discoveryes?

is $2000 to much for this vehicle?

the shop selling it also did all the work.

 

Doesn't sound too much, if all that is said, has been done. the three amigos, could be simple as the option b modification(listed on first page on a sticky). I replaced all four rotors and pads for about 300.00(EBC slotted/grooved discs with akebono ceramic pads), and did not have to bleed anything. Very easy job. The only way to check the abs is a code reader that reads abs codes, and that will direct you to the needed repair, if it is shuttle valve, that would take the mod i spoke of.

 

ahhh yes, the shuttle valve, he did replace that part. he claims that if you move that top plugs wiring harness around it can cause the abs light to come on in the dash. ill have to look at that B plan for the brakes and read up on it. it seems that every used car iv ever bought iv always done a fresh brake job on them. EBC does make good brake products, so ill look into that.

 

replacing part without getting codes is like pissing in the wind.
everyone tries it once and after they waste a couple hundred they buy a code reader. (icarsoft i930)

i cant even count all the people who did the mod 2 fix and still had the three amigo when done,
because the code had nothing to do with the shuttle valve switch.

I read a post from someone last week spent $2K on an new abs modulator, only to find out he need a hub after all.
you really have to have the abs code before writing checks.

as far as the brakes being weak (I like to refer to it as the Disco Two Step) , your driving at truck with 16 year old rubber brake lines, and possibly 16-year old fluid.

buy yourself some SS brake lines and 2 quarts of dot 3/4 brake fluid.
replacing your lines and completely flush the brake system, that will usually restore the pedal.
On my 2000 the fluid look fine, until i got to the 1/2 quart of new fluid in then it came out looking cruddy.

If you place something on the brake pedal, while replacing the lines bleeding will be much easier, because with the pedal down the master can not empty its self. So bleeding is no different than any other truck, bleed from the farthest point from the master the the nearest.

if you do need pads and rotors eBay is loaded with ceramic pad and rotor deals.

any D2 seat will fit, quite a few scraper on the site, you should add your location one may be near.

believe it or not there are quite few different cams out there, but if it is a mild (get the numbers) cam you really should not have a rolling idle, that usually for more radical cams. might want to check for a vacuum leak?

if he has receipts for the stuff he put into it should be worth the money, if it a NE truck check the rear frame section under the bed.

 

So sadly that 2000 sold the other day, so much for waiting and sleeping on it, but it's ok. I did find a 1999 in white and fully loaded for $2900 and closer to home. Has 180k miles on it, but will test drive it and I suppose I can spend the next year slowly replacing parts. I'll probably start off offering $1800 & work r way up from there. I'll just walk away at like $2200.

I was kinda bumbed when the guy text.me about the 2000 being sold. But in cali now and won't fly home till Saturday night, so was going to go buy it Sunday.

 

everything happens for a reason

 

ok, so just test drove this white 1999, drives good, but the un lock, lock does not seem to work in the doors but i do hear clicking in all the doors. other problem is the odometer is flashing. i did a car fax and it goes from 1 owner up to 195k miles, second owner 206k to 225k, then third owner back down to 177k, to fourth owner at which it doesn't state a mileage. but from the test drive today its at 180k miles.

under side looked clean as well.

do these trucks stay in 4x4 all the time? and when i turned full lock, it does have a little bit of bind or a slight moan. is one of the diffs not working right?

how hard is it to replace the ebrake cable? i pulled the lever up and u can see right were the cable broke. although, now that i think about it, it almost looks cut. it was a very clean brake for a steel braided cable.

the motor looks very clean, under the hood looks very good. under side looked good. but just had those few concerns really. what do you all think?

 

oh, and the rear AC vents didn't work, so is that as simple as a blown fuse? is there a second blower above the head liner?

 

try to remove the cap off the expansion tank and only the lid came off and left me with a spring and what looks like the internals of the tanks lid. so all i was able to take off was the upper cap exposing the spring which i was able to take off too. so how do i get into the tank from this point? this is on the white 1999 D2 that im still looking at purchasing. the system looks alot like my 2000 jetta's, no radiator cap, just the expansion tank.

 

i had one cap come apart I think i just grabbed the rest with needle nose pliers and unscrewed it.
someone changed out the speedometer and did not sync it with the other ecu's, also explains the mileage dropping 50K.
have'nt done it but the e-brake cable shouldn't a killer.
if the tires are scuffing on slow turns, you may want to make sure the CDL is not locked.
the second blower is behind the driver quarter panel and the air is ducted to the roof