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Head gasket replacement

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  #1  
Old 12-09-2013, 09:57 PM
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Default Head gasket replacement

Hello all. This weekend I am going to replace the head gasket on my 2000 Disco II. I have the Reinz kit with stretch bolts. Has anyone done this before? More importantly, would that person be willing to PM me his cell number and be available in case I get stuck this weekend?

I have two engines to chose from (both 4.0) the first one has been carelessly stored, and was pulled a few years ago when it overheated and died. I believe it was a Head gasket but there may have been other damage.

The second is on my disco, and has a leak that is significant enough to make full acceleration a no go, but still allows me to drive.

I assume I need to take the heads somewhere. I assume I need to look for other problems while I have it open.

The only reason I mentioned the poorly stored one is that my current engine is ticking rather loudly after it warms up, which assume is a loose liner. I really don't want to rebuild the entire engine and am afraid of what I might find.

Thanks,

CHARLIE V
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:11 AM
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take the heads from the spare motor and send them out to be planned and the valve seals replaced (they come in the gasket kit).
That will save you a day waiting for machine work and will also give you insight into what you have coming.
There are several post on how to do head gaskets nothing really tricky, there are a couple thing i could throw out to you:
take the hood right off,
do not remove the accessory or exhaust manifolds just unbolt them and drag them out of the way and use bungy cords to hold them out of your way.Same with the radiator just protect it with heavy card board.
release the pressure on the head bolts near the fire wall first, these are the ones everyone has trouble with when they get to the end.
I would replace the plugs, wires and t-stat & throttle body heater while i was their.

if you send the heads out ahead of time you could possibly get it done in one long day.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 12-10-2013 at 11:54 AM.
  #3  
Old 12-11-2013, 09:35 AM
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Excellent advice. It will be followed. Because of the HG leak my plugs aren't lasting long and will surely be covered with the whitish film.

Any pointers on what to look for in a shop to do the heads? This is my first time doing this sort of project.
 
  #4  
Old 12-11-2013, 09:43 AM
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just make sure they true the heads the best they can without take off too much.
you need to stress as little as possible is what you want off, to much and you could have valve train issues.
Also in your gasket kit should come 16 little umbrella seals those are your valve guide seals have them replace them while there at it.

any other questions feel free
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:09 AM
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Take lots of pictures. Note where the stud for the AC compressor goes. Shelves are handy to put removed parts on ( better than stacking them on the floor.) Be very careful with the little plastic tip on the radiator. Throw away all spring clamps and use the screw type. THe red plastic hose connector on the intake manifold comes with a pluc in it that looks like it is part of it. It's just a plug to be removed once installed. USE THE RAVE and find procedures and pics on the web.
Use the old valley gasket to help line up heads. Make sure the head gaskets are right side up ( I heard someone did this wrong??) Buy the good stuff.
There are lots of discussion about head bolts. I used stretch bolts last spring have had no issues. Make sure head bolt holes are dry, blow them out with compressed air. I used a small amount of sealant on the Valve covers helps hold the gasket.
Takes a lot of time but doable. Get a strong breaker bar and cheater pipe for the stretch bolts.
I believe the Viscous Fan clutch is 1 1/4 " can be borrowed from most parts stores. Also once done pressure test coolant ( can also be borrowed ) Also this is a good time to change the serpentine belt.
I could go on..... Good luck
 
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  #6  
Old 12-11-2013, 10:21 AM
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if this is your very first time at something like this I would suggest you pull out all your gaskets place them on a piece of cardboard and lightly dust them with spray paint (you only want the outline).
Now as you remove a bolt stick it threw the cardboard in the location that you moved it from, now you will know where every bolt goes when it is time to reassemble it.
The hose and electrical plugs basically will one fit one place so no need to mark them.

you could trace each gasket with a pencil, but i'm to lazy for that.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:32 PM
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I suggest you give Will Tillery a shout (provided he's all settled after his move). He sells a set of rebuilt heads along with a complete head gasket set with new TTY bolts for a very attractive price. You send him your old heads back with the pre-paid shipping label he provides.

Easily the least stressful way to get the parts necessary for a head gasket job.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:22 PM
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he already has a spare set of heads
 
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:27 AM
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I have the Victor Reinz lot with new bolts. Frankly, my biggest worry is planning the heads. I live in a small city, a long way from Dallas (closest big city) and an even longer way to Oklahoma City. Since I have a spare set, sending them out may be the way to go. Someone suggested to me that I should place sand paper on a glass table and push the heads over them in a figure eight pattern on order to remove imperfections. Seems shockingly simple but also is so simple I can't imagine that it would work right.

Thanks again for the suggestions and please keep them coming. I am printing them all, along with relevant portions of the RAVE. Planning to get started this weekend.

Best,

Charlie V
 
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
I Someone suggested to me that I should place sand paper on a glass table and push the heads over them in a figure eight pattern on order to remove imperfections. Seems shockingly simple but also is so simple I can't imagine that it would work right.
Sanding will not help especially if they a re a bit warped This will just clean them up. I suggest sending them to a reputable machine shop.
 


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