I'm down with someone getting their truck fixed when in a pinch. I guess I get stuck on thinking that these sites are for sharing knowledge, but I forget that it could be a medium to find one who knows how to help when in need.

I belong to another forum that's for motorcycles and most people who have problems spell out their process... so that others may avoid similar situations/problems.

We've all got problems on this site. We all own Land Rovers! I bet someone's either had a rough running engine which throws a P code for "multiple cyl. misfire", or the 3 amigos (which is like havin' the crabs.... so I've heard), or rust where the lift gate meets the tailgate on RR Classics!

Kinda anti-climactic when that information just abruptly stops flowin'! But I do see your point.

 

The reason I said what I did in my earlier post is because of the same reason on this thread. I too bought an upgrade package for my Rover (same EBC kit from AB) and found one of my hubs leaked. Goop all over the place on my right rear axle and rotor.

So I looked a few things up on this site... everyone says that a DI can be rebuilt and grease added, and that a DII is sealed. They also say that replacing the O-ring should cure our woes. Not blaming the site, but myself for just stopping there with the information hunt.

I got some Genuine-made-in-Malta-O-rings and some diff. fluid (needed to be changed anyway) and pulled my drive shaft. The axle hub had been cleaned thoroughly when I put on the rotors last week, and I could see were the wet spot was coming from. Not the seam where the axle housing and drive shaft assembly meet. It is indeed where the rotor plate and hub meet at that sealed union. I can either replace the hub, or call Rover to see if it can be serviced (if there are rebuild parts for it), and I'll do it myself.

The thing is, when someone says "call me, and I'll walk you through it", it usually shuts the thread down. Nobody posts anymore. I know occasionally there is the exception to the rule, but you get my drift. I know that you've seen it happen on more than eleventy-five-thousand occasions. Had I read that there are two locations that could be producing the mess, I would have been more alert to that fact that it may be the seam behind the rotor plate (wheel stud plate) instead of John Wayning (verb?) the job and pulling the drive shaft just to put it back on.

Didn't DiscoMike start this forum? Or another one like it? I'm grateful for sites like this. Not puttin' down the man, but sometimes genius gets a little crazy, then you need to get 'em back on track!

 

so I finnaly got around to checking the gear oil level, and found it to be just under a quart low. Someone here said to try adding a Lucas or other brand leak stop type product. Nothing came up ay Kragen, so I just bought 80w/90w gear oil and topped it off. I noticed the older fluid was orangish in color, while the new cheap stuff (non-syn) was green.
Have I mixed syn and non-syn, and should I be trying the stop leak?

 

I had a similar leak in my right rear axle. I put some White Shepherd stop leak in and that seems to have cured my problem. Just as an FYI I the rear axle breather end is behind the left tail light assy. on my '04.

 

Hoping someone can help me with what seems a similar issue to those discussed here.
Had a 700k.m. (435mile) round trip in my '99 110 Defender with 237K kms. (147K miles) on Sunday to find what looks like grease/oil sprayed around the outer side of the left rear wheel. Can't see any signs on the inside of the wheel.
The axles were replaced ~3 yrs. ago, splines chewed out, can't recall if the seals were done at the same time, have a good mechanic so if they should have been he would have!
Is it most likely to be the inner oil seal, or something else? Can a novice replace these inner seals? Is it it just a matter of pulling the hub off & replacing the seal? Think I need the RTC 3511 double lipped seal?

 

my service records show that my passenger rear hub was replaced twice before 40k miles.

 

I have a thin tube that just inserts into top of axle... Is that it???

 

Rubbish , all he needs is a new 'O' ring seal on the rear axle hub. Page 51-3 item 1 'O' ring - RAVE manual. The 'O' ring is pennies for a genuine LR part and an hour or two fitting it. Oh, and a new staked nut - again pennies.

Don't bother with 'snake oil' additives if they work at all it won't be for long and no-one knows or can tell you what other deleterious effects they have. Just price up a new diff and wheel bearings and see what I'm getting at.

Just replace the 'O' rings and check the bearing isn't worn and scrap whilst your at it. If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing properly

 

dates; gentlemen dates,this post was last active in October of 2009. i hope he fixed his axle seal by now.

 

I am new here and just learning my way around the forum and the Disco 2, new for me.

I am going to replace/unclog breather tube, the wheel bearing seems fine, no wiggle... and replace the O ring and nut for good measure. De-gunk the whole mess and see what happens.