Hey Guys...
I'm helping a friend with an 2006 LR3 with the SOHC Ford 4.0 V6.
He had a bad experience with a local mechanic who assembled the engine with one cam 180 deg out of sync. It took out the the main timing chain tensioner and balance shaft/oil pump tensioner as well from all the vibration I would guess. Anyway...I replaced all the chains, tensioners and guides. I'm replacing the front and rear main oil seals along with the torque converter seal and O2 sensors while the engine is out of the car. What I need to know is if the flex plate has to be set at a specific point. There is one long slot in the crank position ring. I'm used to an offset on the crank bolts if they need to be in a specific position and didn't mark the flex plate when I removed it so I have no way to tell where it was positioned. Not sure if the ECU used the long slot as a marker for # 1 or if it just uses it as a reference for RPM.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ede

 

Yes, it does.

There is a hole in the plate, out by the bolt holes, that needs to face the 3 o'clock position, when viewed from the rear of the engine.

 

Hey Dave...
Thanks Very much!
I Figured it was critical to be in the correct position for the crank position sensor to read correctly.
Still not sure why rover chose to use the ring on the flex plate when there are the crank position groves in the front pulley from Ford... the CPS would be so much easier to access there!!!
I'll look or the hole tomorrow I'm guessing it's out near the torque converter bolt holes.
Thanks Again
Ed

 

Hey Dave,
My flex plate has three holdes. This appears to be be the way it should sit at TDC. I'm trying to include a pic to make sure I'm correct. I torqued the bolts to 47 foot pounds...with a drop of blue loctite. That was the only spec. I could find for the flex plate bolts.
This car belongs to a you ng military guy that's been to the Middle East three times and is trying to get back to school ...he really can't affort to fix thing...so helping as much as I can.
Thanks for all your help,
ED

 

You got it right, I forgot to mention that that position of the mark is when cylinder 1 is at TDC.

 

Thanks Dave.
I feel better about installing the engine now!
I had mentioned TDC in the question, so I assumed that. LOL...that can cause problems sometimes!
I'll give an update when I get it running.
Thanks again,
Ed

 

Why is that LR does things slightly different than everyone else? I used to think it was my imagination but it is not. That 3 bolt water pump pulley is another example; most everyone else uses 4 bolts.

I used to blame some of the stuff on the fact their vehicles are designed from the get go with the steering wheel on either side, but it is not that. One wonders if it is on purpose.

We are fortunate the electrical is not positive ground.

 

Hey Bbyer.
British motor vehicles have always been a bit different...my first motorcycle was a Triumph Bonneville and my first car was a Bug Eye Sprite.
The Bonneville was a beautiful thing and for the era handled great...BUT...she leaked oil everywhere and ate electrical components like a 6 year old in a candy store. The Bug Eye wasn't much better...I kept a small hammer under the seat to smack the electric fuel pump which quit at quite regular intervals. A fragile little gear box that weighed as much as the engine...knee action shocks that leaked fluid from day one...the list goes on (including positive earth). Neither were very reliable to say the least. You might not get out of the driveway without having some sort of catastrophic mechanical or electrical failure. I finally ended my love/hate relationship with the Bonney...I got a Honda CB750K...What an amazing difference...smooth...quiet...totally reliable. I still have it today...never leaked a drop of oil and I would get on it today and head across country without a thought. The Bug Eye got replace with an Opel when I went off to college. My little Opel was a reliable little companion only asking for an occasional set of spark plugs and a valve adjustment. The Opel met it's demise at 178,000...a very large 4x4 truck decided to occupy the lane where I happened to already be. I worked my way through college as a Lotus/Fiat mechanic. Two of the most notoriously unreliable vehicles made at the time. I must say I was never at a loss for work! LOL
These days I drive Swedish cars and mostly German motorcycles. I still love to work in my shop...I restore antique and exotics (A lot of Lotus work) as a hobby. But when I get in my car or on my bike I want to arrive at my destination without fuss. As Land Rove transitions from pure British to Ford to Tata...I hope they can keep the Uniqueness but get the engineering right.
Will I ever own one.?.probably not...but I do keep looking on Ebay at Bonnevilles! LOL
Ed

 

Thanks to the help from the forum here...the LR3 is running properly again.
Just top off the tanny fluid and replace a few heat shields and it's ready to hit the road. R and R of the engine in that thing is quite a PITA!!!
Thanks,
Ed

 

Thanks for the thread...just finished timing one and was a no start...think this is my issue