I think the unfortunate reality is that some of the guys on the forum know more about updating the software on the 3's and 4's than most dealer techs. The tech's just do not get paid enough for the heartache upgrades entail, and hence are generally avoided; there are exceptions but ....

Fortunately, there are independents who are intrigued by software and have over time invested the effort into learning the nuances of process.

There is sure no money in it; it is what one calls a labor of love, or perhaps a passion.

Me, updates, I am generally afraid of them due primarily to the unknowns they can also introduce.

 

That is scary, man. Do we (collectively) have any idea of the root cause? I mean for the total shutdown while driving scenario.

 

My incident was caused by an OBDII to WiFi adapter or DashCommand (iOS app). I can get it to do it pretty reliably when I have the adapter plugged in and using DashCommand. However, using a different program (Torque Lite) and an OBDII to Bluetooth adapter, I haven't had it happen yet.

My guess is that either DashCommand or the OBDII to WiFi adapter does something that the network doesn't like and it descends into chaos. The WiFi adapter is a cheap eBay one, so it very well could be the culprit.

 

Ahhhh, okay. Well that does make me feel better!

 

For what it is worth, total shutdown and loss of power is not just a LR thing or that new.

I had a 1988 Chev pickup that with the gas tank at about a 1/4 tank and when doing a hard left turn as at a traffic intersection, the engine would quit about half way thru the turn. Now that I think of it, the radio still worked but it seemed awfully silent in the cab as traffic got closer.

That meant the power steering quit - still had mechanical backup; acceleration stopped, and the oncoming traffic seemed to speed up.

I think it was a gas tank baffle thing as I presumed the gas moved away from the pickup of the electric fuel pump and engine shutdown was immediate. Electronic fuel injection is not like the old mechanical pumps and float bowl type carbs.

GM did not regard it has a concern; hence the fix was fill up before a 1/4 tank and no hard lefts on a low tank.

Where loss of power will get really exciting is when we have pure electric steering by wire: ie no mechanical connection.

 

Only steering by wire I know of at this point is on the Infiniti Q50, their "DAS" system. I don't have it on my own Q50, but I have read enough posts from other owners to know that even that system has a mechanical backup...or some kind of back-up, it may not be mechanical but some kind of fail-safe mode. Perhaps if there is a complete loss of power, that mode is also invoked.

 

When my LR3 was having it's brain farts. It of coarse lowered itself to the bumpstops, and posted messages like cruise control not permitted, and transmission fault. It did still however drive fine with the exception of a bumpy ride.

All of it's brain farts were caused by two things. #1 a faulty and mis-adjusted brake switch, and the PDI 12v lead under the hood (in the battery tray) apparently shorting against the body of the LR3 (someone had cut off the end of it and just tucked it up under in the wiring loom area).

My LR Buddy hooked up his AutoLogic and the only true faults were for a brake switch and PDI 12v short. He said most of the time the little PDI 12v connection is secured in it's little dummy OEM plug beside the battery, but that sometimes it'll get corroded and short inside the dummy plug. In my case someone tried to fix that by simply cutting the wire however they did not cover the wire ends and it was possibly shorting out against the body of the LR3.

After replacing the brake switch & properly adjusting it, then covering both 12v PDI wires and securing it my LR3 has been brain fart free for over 4 weeks. Before it would go nuts on nearly every single drive!!!!!!

 

I recall reading about the Pre Delivery Inspection plug, or "shipping circuit".

I gather the attached "dongle" kept the air suspension system from deflating and going to the stops during the period between the 3 boarding the ship and eventually hitting the dealer lot.

I think it also killed the infotainment system as a secondary goal was to keep the battery from going dead.

I think also some intervention by the SSD was required when the dongle was connected to the PDI plug was removed and tossed.

I guess what I am saying is I wonder if there is some way we could reuse that circuit as a means to keep the air system from deflating when the 3 is acting up. Right now, that is best achieved by pulling the F26E fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.

I must complement your LR Buddy as I regard him as a near genius to figure out the PDI problem.

The brake switch tangle is difficult enough to troubleshoot as all the indications lead elsewhere unless you understand the 3, but the PDI circuit shorting, that is a new to me.

Those solutions are typical of most of our problems with the 3. The fix is simple, but finding the problems, (and there is always more than one), you have to be a magician.

 

I thought that "Transportation Mode" took care of the EAS while the vehicle was being shipped....?

Also, what "adjusting" to the brake switch is required?

 

You are correct, Transportation Mode neuters/disables the air suspension system, particularly wake up and level, so the vehicles do not self level and/or lower and then all the tie down chains get loose and everything starts hopping around.

I wonder how many shiploads of 3's got wrecked worldwide before they figured that one out. Well not even shiploads, but just individual 3s shipped to say the Falklands, per the jpg's attached. Yes, there is a Land Rover dealer in the Falkland Islands. I saw a picture somewhere where the vehicles are lifted off the boat deck via a dock crane, just like in the old movies. Note under Lorries for Sale, they also have TATA pickups.

Vehicles | The Falkland Islands Company

Re the brake light switch, I think adjusting refers to either cleaning the two sets of contacts or replacement of, as per below, there is no adjustment mechanism, it just snaps in; it is not like the old days of threads and jam nuts.

I regard the brake light switch as a maintenance item like spark plugs - replace at least every 50,000 miles or so - well you might go longer with the brake light switch, but say every four years. I think the new part number FoMoCo brake light switches, (part # XKB500110), are upgraded as when I last routinely replaced my switch and took the previous FoMoCo switch out, the contacts were still clean.