A friend of mine bought a Range Rover and I might buy it from him. He's got a littany of parts he's thrown at the problem, but I don't think he's ever had the codes read.

I don't know these cars, but it sounds to me like he's getting too much gas and it causes it to die in the low RPMs, after starting, or idling down. Then it runs with it throttled because it's consuming gas.

I perused this forum and you all encourage me. I think, running right, this might be the vehicle for me. I'm not going to do extreme offroading, will probably baby it, but I do like those logging roads, and finding more off the track trails for day hikes and light back packing.

Old guy on a pension, just considering my options. I can't blame my friend for not going to a shop.... whew, they want 400 bucks a minute or something. Parts ain't exactly cheap either.

OK, that's it. Feedback?

 

Get an obd scanner, and see if its throwing any codes. You can try disconnecting the MAF sensor to see if that makes a difference. If it does, that is most likely the culprit. Sometimes it just needs a cleaning. Have you checked your vacuum lines? Does this problem only occur after its been running for awhile?

 

I will get it coded especially if I buy it this week. I will suggest we d/c the MAF sensor to see if it's functional, makes a difference. Then, clean or replace. I will ask him about looking for cracked or improperly connected vacuum lines.

thanks

As stated, I'm not familiar with these cars. From the symptoms he described and after perusing forums, I thought the fuel pressure regulator... off the top of my head. I just read elsewhere, that the MAF, if disconnected, makes no difference, then it's possibly not functional and may just need cleaning.

No, this is a consistent problem that occurred four months ago, then seemed to go away, but now is back full force. It happens whether it's warm or cold.

 

He replaced the MAF Sensor, coil, plugs, wires, etc.

He had it coded, and it said it wasn't firing on half the cylinders... I don't know if that was before or after the "tune up."

He will check the vacuum lines tomorrow and here's the deal. He hired a guy to do this "tune up" and now it's slower to start.... happened right after the new coil went in.

Also, at that time, there was a backfire. He now suspects the guy didn't put the plug wires back in the correct order. He doesn't recall the guy messing with the timing, but that now sounds like timing is an issue with the "back fire."

 

and it's a fuel injected, high pressure system...

the fuel pump has been replaced and is working...

then, if the regulator isn't able to return unneeded fuel to the tank...

it would run in the high rpms and die in the low, eh?

 

It sounds like the plugs might not be hooked up right. The vehicle doesn't usually lie when it says its not running on half the cylinders. Half the coil pack might also be dead. You might need to pull the plugs to see if they are sparking. Make sure you pull the EFI fuse when you do this.

 

will do

 

So, other than misplace the plug wires (which I think he did), it's possible the new coil he installed, is faulty from the factory, (half not working), apparent because it's being more difficult to start after replacement, and the codes saying it's not firing, eh?

It would be good to unbugger this thing, before proceeding with the initial problem.

 

It is possible the new coil is defective. Was it a used coil by chance?

 

They neglected or didn't know to remove the EFI fuse when they swapped out all the electronic parts. Prior to the new parts, it coded saying half the plugs weren't firing. Afterwards, it said that none of them were firing. The guy put a little starter fluid in there, it was slow trying to start and when it did it set off the starter fluid, hence, the "backfire."

They probably blew the EFI fuse... if you think that would cause the new reading... or, the fuse pack was defective from the factory, which I think is less likely... but I don't know.

thanks