Hi there

First of all sorry my poor English

I recently replaced the timing belt incl tensioner on my 200tdi defender. I realise now i did a small mistake. I didn't slacken the three injection pump pulley retaining bolts. But when i check the timing now by setting the flywheel on the mark and inserting a 9,5mm drill into the pulley of the injection pump, i see no problem.
The reason for my worry is the engine is running a litle rough on idle. Not much but more than normal. Reason number two: when driving on the road down hill with only a little throttle, the engine give a strange sound.... like "doc doc doc" (old fishing boat ) but other than that it starts well, pulls like it should do and no smooke

Any idea of my problem? Do i need to redo my timingbelt fitting, can this be the problem or can other issues cause this problem?

Best regards
Tazzman(from Denmark)

 

Hi Tazzman
If you didn't slacken the three retaining bolts you didn't get the belt tention correct and the belt will now be slightly slack this could create the doc doc noise when going down hill on light throttle. Your running rough on idle you mention, was this happening before you done the belt? as this could be a number of things.
Dude

 

Hi Dude

Thanks for your reply.
The thing is, when i fitted the timing belt, i didn't lock the flywheel (did not have the special to for this) so i tought that since it was only injection pump pulley which was locked the tension of the belt would be ok anyway... But fact is, i didn't do it according to the book.

I just replaced my old 2,5td with this 200tdi, so if the vibration or rough idle was there or not before the belt chance, i don't know. To take no risk at replaced the belt before fitting the engine.

Additional info; No water or oile consumption, no increased pressure in cooling system.

I have been thinking of a blown head gasket. But shouldn't this sound then apear with heavy load instead of light throtlle?

BR
Tazzman

 

ok lets start at the beginning, you have to lock the crank shaft when you do the timing belt as when you tention the belt you pull on the belt from that point around the cam shaft then around the pump this is why you pin the pump with the tool (or a drill bit) then slacken off the three locking bolts to allow the pully to move and the tention be achieved with out the crank shaft moving. If your crank shaft moved you could now have got your cam timing out as well as your pump timing, you have no choice but to do your cambelt again and you must use the tool for locking the crank,
If all your timings are out the engine will definately be running very rough and making very funny noises. When you have done the belt again then check your tappets (valve clearances) these should be done when the engine is cold inl:0.2mm exh:0.2mm best way i find is the rule of nine ie, when valve 1 is fully open adjust valve 8. 1+8=9 so when valve 3 is fully open adjust valve 6. 3+6=9 you get the idea. By the way if your cam timing was out and your pistons have touched your valves dont panic the valves dont bend normaly it just bends the push rods.
If it is still bad after you have done all that you might want to check the fuel pump lift is correct it should be 1.54mm at TDC let me know if you want to no the info on how to do it.

 

Hi
Valve clearance checked and ok. And as i mentioned when i now check the pumptiming by inserting a lock in the pump pully and look at the TDC mark on the flywheel, it match 100%, so the only thing i am not 100% sure of is the position of the cam shaft. But i would expect more dramatic problems if this was the case. Again, it starts as soon you touch the key and pulls like a train, so i would supprice me if the cam was a hole tooth out of position.

But now i getting really interestet in your last hint. "to check the fuel pump lift is correct", please if you have the time to explain this to me, i will be very thankfull.

Hope maybe this can guide me in the right direction.

I quarantie that i will give a beer next time you are in Denmark if it solves the problem

 

right you need a dial guage.
then look at the back of your fuel pump,were the four fuel pipes come out of the pump, in the middle of them is a bolt (10mm or 12mm)i think.
then make sure your marks on the crank shaft pully are clean and you can see them well may be put some paint on them to help you see them. turn the engine over to TDC, remove the small cover so you can gain access to the fuel pump timing make sure your drillbit or timing tool fit in the pump pully hole at this stage, adjust it by slackening the three bolts on the pully and turning the 22mm nut in the middle slightly so you can,( if you can't that is) Now once you are happy with that turn the crank back about 30 degrees so you are about 30 degrees before TDC then remove the bolt i mentioned earlier in the back of the pump and put your dial guage in the pump, make sure the guage is on zero by moving the crank back and forth the guage should not move,then turn the crank slowly up to TDC watching the dial guage at the same time, when you get to TDC check your drillbit goes in the hole for the pump timing and at this point the dial guage should have gone up to 1.54mm (gone round 1.54 times). You might want to back of the crank and check your dial guage readings a couple of times. If you are not getting 1.54mm lift you have to adjust the pump.
So bring the crank up to TDC put your drillbit in the hole remembering to watch your dial guage then loosen the pump retaining bolts and the four fuel pipes and turn the pump round slightly un till the dial guage goes to 1.54mm then lock the retaining bolts back up on the pump, take out your drillbit from the pump timing hole and turn the crank back 30 degrees and start again to check the dial guage when you are at TDC with the drill bit back in the pump timing hole, this might also take a couple of times to get it right.once you are happy with what you have done remove the dial guage and put it all back together.
I hope this info will help you, i also know of some tips on how to get more power when you have got it running right.

 

Hi Dude

Thanks a lot for this explanation. Perfect. I will try it out this weekend and see if this will make a change.

Best regards
Tazzman

 

Hi Dude

Are you sure it's possible to adjust the pump in this way? I know it a common way to adjust a diesel injection pump. But i don't see it's possible to do on the 200tdi motor. I can not see that you can turn the pump in any directions. The only way you can adjust(timing) the pump is on the pulley. Am i totally wrong!?!