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Brake all aroudn on a D1 - add'l parts?

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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Default Brake all aroudn on a D1 - add'l parts?

I'm about to order up new rotors & pads for my old '94 D1, and looking through some of the kits available ... some include all the inner hub oil seals, lock washers, joint washers, kitchen sinks, etc - and some are just the facts: rotors, pads, springs and clips.

Now the truck is dying a slow death - it starts and runs fine, but being in central NY, the weather is eating it away. It doesn't owe me anything, but I'm not about to drop five bills into a slotted & drilled high performance set up, when it's probably going to rot off faster than I can wear it down.

Ultimately my question is thus: do I need all the seals, etc? The brakes were last overhauled about 2 years ago, and not very many miles ago.

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 08:16 AM
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Yes, you need all the seals as well as plan on redoing/servicing the swivels and repacking the bearings or she will come back and bite you.
Check out the prices at Atlantic British, sale.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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eeeww ... you had to say that. I hate repacking bearings. Are they pressed into the rotors (would it be easier to just replace them)?

What do the swivels require?

Thanks for suffering the nuisance questions. I just don't want to get caught out with a wheel in the air while I wait for parts I could've ordered in advance ...
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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If you have fairly low mileage and no death wobble I probably wouldn't bother with the swivel pins. Remove your steering damper and take it for a drive. If you hit a bump and the steering wheel jerks back and forth in your hand until you hit the brakes then you need to redo your swivel pins.
Hub bearing part number is Timken SET37 or SKF BR37. I can't remember the *** number.

For the hubs you can repack the bearings or replace them, your choice. But if you replace them they still need to be packed. The outer races are pressed in to the hub.
For packing the bearings I use one of these to squirt grease between each roller. A lot less messy.


For the hub seal, if you off-road at all, ditch the hub seal spec'd for Discos, it's a PoS, and use the Defender RTC3511. A much better seal.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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Just repack the bearings with grease, you dont have to replace them
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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Well, the need to replace really depends on their condition. To know if they need it or not you have to clean and inspect them and the races.
I'd get at least 2 sets (each hub takes two sets). That way if you get the hub apart and find you need them, you can just install the new ones, instead of having to go get them, or worse, put your truck back together to go get them if it's your only car.

So what I would suggest to do the job in addition to your brake parts:
From a Rover parts supply house -
5 RTC3511 hub seals (one extra in case you mess one up)
4 hub lock plates (they go between the hub lock nuts and can be really buggered up and they are cheap enough)
Swivel pin rebuild kit if your test indicates you need it.

Sourced locally:
2 SET37 or BR37 hub bearings - about $13 each
Loctite 270 - used on caliper, rotor and drive flange bolts
 

Last edited by antichrist; Aug 19, 2009 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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Wow, thanks Tom. (I love coming here and asking questions.) I know new bearings would have to be packed too ... I was just hoping to avoid it altogether. LOL

My truck has 101k on it, and the steering feels pretty sharp, actually. No wobble, it returns to center after a turn nicely, etc. Unfortunately, this really is my foul-weather steed: if it's not snowing or blowing a gail, I'm generally on a motorcycle. I only put about 2k a year on it.

But reading this ... I might go look for some potholes to see how it reacts, before placing an order. I think this is turning into one of those big "while I'm in there" excursions ...

BTW, great idea w/ the needle; is that zerc fitting? And thank for the tip on the better seal as well!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fasterdammit
I think this is turning into one of those big "while I'm in there" excursions ...
It's called ship fitter's disease.

BTW, great idea w/ the needle; is that zerc fitting?
Yes. I've had mine for years and can't remember where I got it, but I've seen them at a number of auto parts stores.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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If you dont replace your rotors then you dont need to repack your bearings.
Are your rotors warped?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
If you dont replace your rotors then you dont need to repack your bearings.
Are your rotors warped?
There's a good throb somewhere when I hit the brakes; enough so that my buddy's shop wouldn't let it pass NYS inspection. (I've known it's bad too, but I hardly drive it - which apparently led to their relatively early demise as well).

My wife & I have been having the "this truck will never be worth $4500" discussion - re: cash for clunkers - but it's not nice having the new car payment either. Especially with an impending motorcycle purchase ... lol

Tom - ship fitter's disease - that's awesome. Searched & found this: http://www.retro.co.za/landy/shipfitters.html
 
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