All:

Having driven past the 2,000 mile break-in period, I got around to changing my engine oil this past weekend. It was a bit of an adventure. Here are some points others may want to know:

The manual recommends oil changes every 21,000 miles (a shockingly high number for me and others on this forum) with Castrol Edge Professional E C5 0W-20, under a new specification STJLR.03.5006. This replaces the prior standard STJLR.51.5122 which covers Castrol Edge Professional E 0W-20.

The product data sheets show virtually no difference in the two oils, except for better ash dispersal -- to be able to be called a 20K mile oil, I suppose, for the new E C5 0W-20 oil. I could not locate it anywhere in North America or the UK. I called my dealer and asked if they had it and they said no. I spoke with their Service head and he said they were using the same oil they always have for their 4 cyl. turbo ingenium motors -- the Edge Professional E 0W-20 oil. They knew of no plans to receive in stock a different oil. They had no idea the specification in the manual had changed.

So, I ordered the Castrol Edge Professional E 0W-20 oil change kit from Atlantic British -- Item #OCK500. The kit included a made in the UK filter and a new drain plug.

I have a new MityVac (thanks to one of you on the forum who likes his !), but I wanted to pull the drain plug, so I can see if any metal particles were liberated during the break-in period (I saw none -- good news!).

I do not have a lift, nor ramps, so I positioned the vehicle over an ample gully in off-road height and proceeded to begin what I expected to be the easy task of removing the aluminum armor sheet under the motor.

I counted 7 bolts (15 mm) to remove the sheet. The real number was ~13 (I don't remember), including T15s and 10 mm bolts fasteners. Several were layered under this primary sheet -- away from the motor. This first step job took more than an hour (it will go faster next time, maybe?).

Do NOT remove the two hidden 15MM bolts in the back middle -- just loosen them. They have a slip slit to allow them to hold up the plate while removing the other fasteners and position it when you re-install it. Be careful sticking your hands into the access ports or twist your hands inside -- the aluminum is very sharp and the ports are too small. (Yes, blood flowed).

Once the armor sheet was removed, all on the oil change was normal, except for as I note below.

A question: Does anyone know why the oil sump was covered in insulation -- temperature or noise suppression from contacting the armor sheet?

Four other learnings:

1) The manual says to execute the oil change with the vehicle flat. I was sloped up a bit and clockwise (from inside the vehicle). This trapped what turned out to be 3/4 of a quart of oil in the turbo and its tubing.

2). I had hoped the oil change was a waste of time (based on the 21K mile limit). It was NOT, I believe, as the oil was very, very dirty -- black. Maybe lubrication or tubing coating or turbo bearing cavity oil or some such?

3). Do not execute the oil change without sunlight available. The 0W-20 oil was so clean, non-viscous and clear, and the twisty dipstick was so active in wiping off the oil, that it was not possible to actually see the oil level until the next day (barely) in the bright sunlight. So, as the rain and darkness were coming, I just followed the manual and poured in 7.4 Quarts of oil.

4) The next morning, per the manual, I checked the oil and found I was 3/4 Quart over. (Fyi -- there are 1.9 Qts from the min mark to the max mark.) Here, the new MityVac was terrific -- pulled the oil right out from from the dipstick hole. NICE !!

I hope this helps you. Enjoy !!

Oh yes -- adding one more learning .... do NOT remove the oil cap after removing the drain plug. I did and the oil "came a gusher" out of the drain hole -- really launched the oil horizontally over the bottom of the vehicle. Next time I will crack the cap later in the draining process.

 

Thanks for the update. There is a video from Shedlock2000 on youtube of him doing an oil change using the Vac method. He does the vac every 5k and the oil plug every 10k. If you haven't had a chance, check it out.

 

Thank you for all the information. Brought back memories of removing all the LR3 rusted bolts and skid plates to change the oil.

I'm spoiled by the Mityvac and will probably never change the Defender oil from the drain plug. My LR4 has only received Mityvac oil changes over it's 127K miles. However, I did change the oil every 7500 miles up to 100K and now every 5000 miles after 100K. I always thought the recommended LR4 15K change interval was too long.

And I doubt I'll use the expensive Castrol spec oil either. I presume it's engineered for the 21K mile changes. I'll probably go with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and change it every 7500 miles.

 

What model Mityvac and price point would you recommend for engine oil changes?
I assume p400 oil change is pretty similar to the p300. Any feedback?

 

Most LR4 owners bought this Mityvac:
Of course that was 8 years ago. This seems to be the most popular extractor today:

 

Thank you. Just ordered with prime one day shipping.

 

Yes, the MV7201 8.8 liter is the one I bought. Really well made and effective. It both extracts and fills, which is potentially very useful.

The P400 uses the same oil as the P300, under the same specification. The P400's capacity is 9.3 U.S. Qts (8.8 L), while the P300 holds 7.4 U.S Qts (7 liters).

 

Oh no...I have a P400 on order and own a 8.8 liter Mityvac. That is going to be close.

 

This one on the Liqui-moly website says the oil found by Umbertob will work for my P300 :

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/servic...a24ff4b30852b/

 

Good find, these prices are a lot more reasonable than the LR oil I've been finding online. When on Liqui Moly's site, they don't list anything that's compatible with the US spec p300's. But if you select EU - it shows the Top Tec 6600.