Trying to move my camper and found I don't have 12V trailer power going to it, making the power jack inop as the trailer batteries were dead. Anybody know how to get it working? I've had a few pickups that had an optional fuse for that circuit that was not installed by default, but once installed it would power the trailer. Is there something similar on the land Rover? I'd also like that working to operate the fridge while traveling on longer trips where the built in batteries might run out. I used my Mom's grand Cherokee and it powered the jack right away, so it's not the trailer or plug that's the issue.
Edit: 2023 d130 with factory hitch and towarc brake controller (which works fine)

 

I'll take a stab but not 100% I'll be on target

In my 110x I run dedicated charge wiring for my trailer in addition to the factory installed 7 pin setup various pics posted here). I'm running 6 gauge multi-strand wire + + https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb50-50amp from LRD battery to rear tow point. In turn I have two cables to/from the trailer. One North American standard 7 pin for lights, signals, etc. + one Andersen Connector to the trailer charging control system and Lithium batteries.

Essentially what I have is:

1. Trailer 7 pin connection by Land Rover
2. Andersen Connection by Owner

Basically running the fridge (etc) draws off trailer 12v battery system which is charged by solar when disconnected and/or tow vehicle and solar when towing/driving. Perhaps it's an issue where the LRD must be running to energize the 7 port pin and run the trailer jack?

Sorry I can't offer much more than that guess. In my case the trailer jack is manual and I've never checked to see if the 7 pin trailer pin is putting juice to the trailer. I do know that my trailer required a dedicated Anderson plug as noted above to properly get enough juice to engage the trailer charging system when in tow. Just tossing out that I dedicated charge cable to run those types of trailer accessories might the a practical solution.

Hope that possibly helpful. With an AUS build trailer here in the US I'm a bit of a weirdo in many respects. I can confirm I like the two wire connection system (7 pin + Anderson) and find it very efficient and convenient.

 

that's a bummer....on my Xc90 connector I have 12 volt going in.

 

That's definitely an option but I'd at least like to get the 12v power pin working in the 7 pin connector and then see if I need to supplement. I'm not running lithium batteries so shouldn't need a supplemental circuit with dc-dc charge controller. This is the first time I've plugged in to dead batteries, so I'm wondering if it works if the batteries have a nominal charge but shuts off the 12v if it's too low so as not to overload the circuit or something, as I know some modern vehicles have an intelligent charge circuit for the trailer. No idea how to test that other then trying to plug it in again when fully charged and check to see the voltage.

 

For what it's worth - I agree with topping up the batteries first and then seeing if the jacks work as expected is the way to go. I know from related experience some vehicles, devices, or accessories, etc. are more sensitive to voltage/charge levels than others. And there's little doubt the standard single port in the 7 pin connector is going to limit how much power is transferred (sorry can't recall gauge of wire which is directly related). I'd stick the trailer batteries on the charger and give it another go. It seems reasonable there could be a low voltage cut off to prohibit the jacks or other accessories from working (likely depends on trailer).

 

I think it'd be on the land Rover side as when I plugged in to the grand Cherokee it worked immediately. So for some reason it's not supplying 12v.

 

So this is from service manual, I'm assuming pin 4 called IGN+VE should be 12v+charging. Does it work? And also there's some brake control module?

 

is it not supplying in engine ON position? according to wiring diagram above, it should.

 

Thanks for the diagram, I'll check fuse 16r. I have a towarc brake controller installed, and it definitely registered that the trailer was plugged in as the brake controller lit up and it showed the trailer in the nav screen. Engine running at time I tried the jack. I'll check with my multimeter but it might not energize the circuit if it doesn't detect that a trailer is plugged in, and I'm not sure how to fool it that one is.

 

So checked the rear fuse box (16r means fuse 16 in the rear presumably), and sure enough, fuse 16 was blown. I'm hoping it won't blow anytime the trailer batteries are low, will have to see next time I hook up my camper what it does, but I plan to charge it before using it again anyway.